Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Deuto
Page Views: 338 total · 90/month
Shared By: Chris Deuto on Jan 28, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

This long forgotten about variation climbs up the difficult looking seam just left of Ken T’ank’s upper section.

Start by climbing the first crimp crux of Ken T’ank, to the massive jug rest, (although the first ascensionist did not use the leg wrap out far right). From the rest, move left to a jug flake with foot smears, then move into an upside down slot, and make a hard clip. The rest of the crux is very beta intensive, and there are several ways to do it (hint: right toe hook for last move). This has four star rock, has four star movement, and in my opinion, is a four star line. Don’t be put off by its close position to Ken T’ank, you have to be very tall and strong to move back into that rock climb once you are in the crux. It felt 5.14- for me, but with different beta and climbing style, it could feel harder or easier. Still, it’s a great climb, and I hope it receives the attention it deserves.

Location

Start on Ken T’ank, then at the big jug rest, move to the left bolt line, and clip the left three bolts before moving back to Ken T’ank at the last bolt.

Protection

9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Tried the straight up before I quickly realized I needed to be a bit taller. Good job! Jan 30, 2019
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Hell yeah, Chris! Nice work putting down this long-standing project! Feb 1, 2019