Play Pen Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.742, -105.413 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||17,262 total · 187/month|
|Shared By:||Drew Spaulding on Nov 12, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
The "Play Pen" now hosts 9 new pitches on quality rock. These pitches start out less than desirable with the broken ledges at the base of the wall. At least 1 natural cam placement at the start of each pitch provides for a safe start before reaching the bolts (usually a 3"-4" cam in the horizontal crack. Highly suggested!). Once on the wall, the features and moves provide a lot of juggy fun and are cleaning up nicely (some lichen and moss still needs attention). The routes' heights are 65'-80' tall with some steep and challenging 5.10, but there are some small ledges with no-hands rests mixed in there too.... The routes are steeper than they look!
The name PLAY PEN comes from a variety of the characteristics at this crag... all referring to the very easy approach; short, moderate climbs; a stellar place to bring toddler's to play while climbing and an obvious place where beer drinkers and hellraisers (skeet shooters) used to break bottles and shoot guns. My friends think I should name it the "Redneck Crag" due to lots of old broken glass and bullet shells on the ground.... I know, it doesn't sound ideal for a kids "Play Pen", but we can clean this shit up (I have been...). This has literally got to be the easiest approach of any crag in Clear Creek Canyon. Park on the east side of Tunnel 6 and walk downhill on the old jeep road 150 yards (upsteam), and you are at the PLAY PEN. My 2 1/2 year old road his Strider bike right to the PLAY PEN. We brought some of his Tonka toys and some snacks, and he had a blast.
The jeep road is a good 40' away from the base of the wall (good play area) and is close to the river's edge. At low water (175cfs), my boy was down in the huge eddy playing in the shallow river's edge, with adult supervision, of course. We had 3 climbers and one adult would watch the toddler while the other 2 climbed. The first route we did I named "Child's Play" (5.10a/b), because my boy was there to see it go down. So, long story short, the name PLAY PEN just fell into place....
Here is a quick list of the routes from left to right:
A. School's Out, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
B1. Froggy Crack, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
B2. Bulletin Board, 11, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
B1/2C. Teeter Totter Roof, 11-, 1p, 95, gear.
D. Lil' School Girl, 7+, 1p, 75', gear.
D. Toy Box, 5.10b/c, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Old Man's Myth, 5.9, 1p, 65', gear.
F. Recess, 5.10c/d, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
G. Child's Play, 5.10a/b, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Pirate's Booty, 5.10c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.
Eds. some campers will set up ~50' right of this cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Play Pen
Days w Precip