Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 39.742, -105.413 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,796 total · 170/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 12, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The "Play Pen" now hosts 9 new pitches on quality rock. These pitches start out less than desirable with the broken ledges at the base of the wall. At least 1 natural cam placement at the start of each pitch provides for a safe start before reaching the bolts (usually a 3"-4" cam in the horizontal crack. Highly suggested!). Once on the wall, the features and moves provide a lot of juggy fun and are cleaning up nicely (some lichen and moss still needs attention). The routes' heights are 65'-80' tall with some steep and challenging 5.10, but there are some small ledges with no-hands rests mixed in there too.... The routes are steeper than they look!

The name PLAY PEN comes from a variety of the characteristics at this crag... all referring to the very easy approach; short, moderate climbs; a stellar place to bring toddler's to play while climbing and an obvious place where beer drinkers and hellraisers (skeet shooters) used to break bottles and shoot guns. My friends think I should name it the "Redneck Crag" due to lots of old broken glass and bullet shells on the ground.... I know, it doesn't sound ideal for a kids "Play Pen", but we can clean this shit up (I have been...). This has literally got to be the easiest approach of any crag in Clear Creek Canyon. Park on the east side of Tunnel 6 and walk downhill on the old jeep road 150 yards (upsteam), and you are at the PLAY PEN. My 2 1/2 year old road his Strider bike right to the PLAY PEN. We brought some of his Tonka toys and some snacks, and he had a blast.

The jeep road is a good 40' away from the base of the wall (good play area) and is close to the river's edge. At low water (175cfs), my boy was down in the huge eddy playing in the shallow river's edge, with adult supervision, of course. We had 3 climbers and one adult would watch the toddler while the other 2 climbed. The first route we did I named "Child's Play" (5.10a/b), because my boy was there to see it go down. So, long story short, the name PLAY PEN just fell into place....

Here is a quick list of the routes from left to right:

A1. Froggy Crack, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
A2. Bulletin Board, 11, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
A1/2B. Teeter Totter Roof, 11-, 1p, 95, gear.
B. Lil' School Girl, 7+, 1p, 75', gear.
C. Toy Box, 5.10b/c, 1p, 60', bolts.
D. Old Man's Myth, 5.9, 1p, 65', gear.
E. Recess, 5.10c/d, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
F. Child's Play, 5.10a/b, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. Pirate's Booty, 5.10c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.

Eds. some campers will set up ~50' right of this cliff.

Getting There

Driving up river from the CO Hwy 119/US 6 intersection, park on the right just before Tunnel 6. Walk downhill on the old railroad bed 150 yards (upsteam), and you are at the PLAY PEN. If the parking on the east side is full, you could also park as for Primo and walk downstream along the old railroad bed next to the creek (look at location on the map).

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Play Pen

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 5
Froggy Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Old Man's Myth
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
Pirate's Booty
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Toy Box
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Recess
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Teeter Totter Roof
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Froggy Crack
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Old Man's Myth
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Pirate's Booty
 36
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Toy Box
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Recess
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Teeter Totter Roof
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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