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Routes in Play Pen

Child's Play S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Froggy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lil' School Girl T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Man's Myth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pirate's Booty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Recess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teeter Totter Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toy Box S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Justin Day, Mark Miner, Drew Spaulding, Ty Hydrusko, Aug. '13
Page Views: 315 total · 6/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 16, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

After scrambling up the lower ledges (1 or 2 cam placements are suggested), gain the steep, challenging "recess" below the dramatic double roofs above. Powerful liebacks straight up through the roofs is the obvious crux of this pitch (5.10c). My initial intention was to gain the right crack of the Y.... After leaving the drill and bolts with Justin and Mark, they decided to place bolts to out the right of the crack and keep it a face climb. It becomes a little indecisive to climb to the left of the 4th bolt (the crack) or to the right of the bolts (face). To stay to the right of the 4th bolt is fun face climbing and is the way it was intended (a bit rulesy...). This is a fun, exciting pitch nonetheless!

Protection

6 bolts and 2-bolt anchor w/chains.

Photos

Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
I think that people rating this climb 5.10a must be stepping out left at the crux bolt. I think if you stay directly above and right of the crux bolt, this steep roof move is more like 5.10c/d. There is an incredible lieback edge to the right of the crux bolt which puts you into a powerful position to make a long reach with the left hand (harder than 10a...). May 23, 2015
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
10c/d. The new guidebook rates this, and the climb to the left, as 10a and the easiest of the 4 bolted routes. I thought this climb was the hardest, at least the pumpiest of the 5 routes currently here. Nov 8, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield
5.10c
A. Bandos   Broomfield
5.10c
Didn't use a cam before the first bolt. Felt pretty confident clipping it, but I'm 6'1". Fun deadpoint at the 2nd bolt. At the 4th bolt, both me and my partner assumed the line went to the right onto the face, but there is so much moss and lichens that it would be tough. Fun climbing. Sep 10, 2014

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