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Routes in Play Pen

Child's Play S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Froggy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lil' School Girl T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Man's Myth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pirate's Booty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Recess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teeter Totter Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toy Box S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: ??? on the original FA-(old school aid line)
Page Views: 331 total, 7/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 16, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

After some cleaning and excavating of the crack, I led this line with all natural gear in September '13. We had found an old piton that came out quite easily. It seems obvious some "Old Man" had been up there training for the bigger walls of Eldo, The Black, and beyond.... They may have climbed up to the right where the crack system splits into a Y (looks like fun free climbing too). There is a large "boot-shaped flake" to the left of the crack that is hollow and gonging when tested. It seems to be solidly connected at its top, but avoiding it is advised (hoping to extract this unwanted feature...). There is solid gear to the right and can be avoided.... A splitter finger crack leads up through some exciting finishing moves to share the same 2-bolt anchor with Toy Box.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 2" protect this classic CCC spitter.

Photos

D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.9+
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.9+
Fun little route. Really good gear, but I wouldn't put any of it behind - or even use - the boot flake. Oct 1, 2016
Old school 5.9 for sure! Sep 21, 2014
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
...yeah, when I led it, I was missing that big key hold to the left of the crack. Felt like 5.10, almost fell... use all that is available to you to make it 5.9. Jan 27, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
I agree with the 5.9 rating on this one, but the moves are not obvious at the steepest section, and it does look harder than a 9. I think it is 5.9 for several moves and not just a single one. Jan 21, 2014