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Routes in Play Pen

Child's Play S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Froggy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lil' School Girl T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Man's Myth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pirate's Booty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Recess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teeter Totter Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toy Box S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Drew Spaulding, Justin Day, Sara Bria, August '13
Page Views: 476 total, 10/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 16, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Child's Play was the 1st route we decided to bolt on the wall.

Start to the right of the pine tree and up through the roofs directly above the tree. Clipping the 3rd bolt has been the crux for some people.... Originally, we climbed past the 3rd bolt to the right(10a), but now we've worked out the moves directly below and to the left of the 3rd bolt (11.a). Either way is fun! The climbing continues at 5.9 the rest of the way. My young toddler Bodhi got to witness me first lead this pitch, so I named it Child's Play.

Protection

7 bolts and 2-bolt anchor. I strongly suggest placing a large cam 3"-4" in the horizontal crack before clipping the 1st bolt!

Photos

D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.10a
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Fun moves. Poorly bolted. I climbed past several of the bolts and then reached down or laterally at hip height to clip - be solid at the grade. Oct 1, 2016
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
Apparently you are supposed to go right. Left is super tough with a dyno to a pinch, slide foot, flip to undercling. Being short makes this a tough route. I think it could possibly be bolted better, since most of the good stances were really out of reach for someone who is 5'7".

I guess going right is easier (my girl did this on top rope, and it made sense).

Worth the climb though for sure. Apr 23, 2016
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
I give this route a bomb due to the poor placement of the third bolt in particular and the rest of the bolts. I understand spaced bolts, particularly if they are placed on stances on a ground up ascent. This does not appear that way to me (perhaps I am wrong). This appears bolted top down. Many of the bolts are near the "harder" moves,] but just out of reach if you aren't tall. The third bolt is just stupid. Putting it a couple of inches lower would make the climb much more fun.
The climbing isn't particularly hard or special, and certainly not worth the risk of injury you face if you are shorter and cannot clip that third bolt. Jul 12, 2015
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
The crux was fun on this one! All of these routes were really good, I thought. Jul 9, 2014
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
That 3rd bolt is tricky to clip, but we figured out 2 ways to do that crux. There is a 5.11a crux if you climb straight up under the bolt and crank the moves to the left instead of the 10a crux to the right. This 3rd bolt protects either variation safely.... Super fun! Jan 27, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
This climb seemed true to its grade, but the third bolt seemed high and thus hard to clip. There is an overhanging section that is 10a due to the large holds. A great route! Jan 21, 2014