Elevation: 5,837 ft
GPS: 39.75, -105.248 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 236,029 total · 1,502/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Description

The first crag on the left heading up Clear Creek always caught the eye but was a pain to access. This all changed when JCOS put in a new foot bridge. With surprisingly excellent CCC rock, the crag holds the shade through the mornings until around 2:00 in the summer and stays shady all day in the fall.

For steeper, more challenging routes check out The Twilight Zone, just past The Canal Zone perched on the hillside above.

Getting There

Park in the first pullout on the left, right after you enter the canyon. Walk East on the dirt road that leaves the East end of the lot past the gate, down to the canal road. Head back West on the canal road to the bridge.

For a more direct approach, pick one of the erosional, steep, loose, grotty, gullies beyond the parking lot and descend directly to the foot bridge.

A bit longer but more enjoyable approach to the bridge can be had by parking near the Golden Recreation Center at the West end of 10th Street and walking the river path West, under the highway, up river to the foot bridge.

Cross the bridge and take a left on the Canal Zone / Twilight Zone Climbing Access Trail. When the trail levels out at the canal, turn right and walk about 1/4 mile to the crag.

Google map link. Follow the orange path! 

L->R:

A1. Cut Loose, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
A2. Bear's Choice, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.
A2B. Bear's Choice Easy Variation, 8+, 1p, 75', bolts.
B. Box of Rain, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
C. Ripple, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
D. Venice Beach, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
E. Holiday Road, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Dirt Trek, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
G. Ridin' the Moon Buggy, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear.
H. Berga, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Beasto, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
J. Ridin' the Moon Buggy, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Turkey Jerky, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
LM. Snake Eyes, 11, var, bolts.
M. Walking With A Ghost, 11, 1p, 55', bolts. 2 starts.
N. Ivy League, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Panama Red, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
P. Route Canal, 9, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
Q. Gondolier Arete, 10-, 1p, 55', bolts.
R. Made In The Shade, 9-, 1p, 125', bolts.
S. Aretnophobia, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Batso Canal, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.
U. Lambada, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
V. Levada, 8+, 1p, 80', bolts.
W. The Whopper, 9-, 1p, bolts.
X. Buckets of Rain, 8 or 10-, 1p, 45', bolts.
Y. Lame Line, 8, 1p, 60', gear.

Rattlesnakes

Beware of rattlesnakes along the approach.

26 Total Climbs

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Location: The Canal Zone Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Canal Zone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 122
Dirt Trek
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 288
Route Canal
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 646
Made In The Shade
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 177
The Whopper
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 118
Berga
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 420
Ivy League
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 508
Gondolier Arete
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 578
Panama Red
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 421
Beasto
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 301
Lambada
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 284
Bear's Choice
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 393
Turkey Jerky
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 339
Batso Canal
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 284
Aretnophobia
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 490
Walking With A Ghost
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dirt Trek
 122
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Route Canal
 288
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Made In The Shade
 646
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
The Whopper
 177
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Berga
 118
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ivy League
 420
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Gondolier Arete
 508
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Panama Red
 578
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Beasto
 421
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lambada
 301
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Bear's Choice
 284
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Turkey Jerky
 393
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Batso Canal
 339
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Aretnophobia
 284
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Walking With A Ghost
 490
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Canal Zone »

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