Elevation: 5,837 ft
GPS: 39.75032, -105.24779
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 290,011 total · 1,637/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Description

The first crag on the left heading up Clear Creek always caught the eye but was a pain to access. This all changed when JCOS put in a new foot bridge, parking area, and access stairs. With surprisingly excellent CCC rock, the crag holds the shade through the mornings until around 2:00 in the summer and stays shady all day in the fall.

For steeper, more challenging routes check out The Twilight Zone, just past The Canal Zone perched on the hillside above.

Getting There

Park in the first parking area on the left, right after you enter the canyon. Take the stairs down, cross the bridge, and take a left on the Canal Zone / Twilight Zone Climbing Access Trail. When the trail levels out at the canal, turn right and walk about 1/4 mile to the crag.

*As of 9/1/21 the parking lot at the 2nd pullout is open. Walk down the paved trail to a set of stone stairs on the right, there is a well marked sign that says climber access. Climb the stairs, walk 4 minutes down the trail, and you'll be at the far right side of the crag. 

Google map link. Follow the orange path!

Eds. This used to involve an approach via one of the steep, loose, grotty gullies beyond the parking lot, descent to the foot bridge, and a steep ascend up a loose slope...no longer!

L->R:

A1. Cut Loose, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.

A2. Bear's Choice, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.

A2B. Bear's Choice Easy Variation, 8+, 1p, 75', bolts.

B. Box of Rain, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.

C. Ripple, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.

D. Venice Beach, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.

E. Holiday Road, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.

F. Dirt Trek, 9, 1p, 132', bolts & gear.

G. Ridin' the Moon Buggy, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear.

H. Berga, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

I. Beasto, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

J. Ridin' the Moon Buggy, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear.

K. Turkey Jerky, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.

LM. Snake Eyes, 11, var, bolts.

M. Walking With A Ghost, 11, 1p, 55', bolts. 2 starts.

N. Ivy League, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

O. Panama Red, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

P. Route Canal, 9, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.

Q. Gondolier Arete, 10-, 1p, 55', bolts.

R. It’s A Little Bushy, 5, 1p, 60', gear.

S. Made In The Shade, 9-, 1p, 125', bolts.

T. Aretnophobia, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.

U. Batso Canal, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.

V. Lambada, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

W. Levada, 8+, 1p, 80', bolts.

XY. The 2021 Evergreen Obstruction, 7, 1p, 60', gear.

Y. The Whopper, 9-, 1p, bolts.

Z. Buckets of Rain, 8 or 10-, 1p, 45', bolts.

AA. Lame Line, 8, 1p, 60', gear.

Rattlesnakes

Beware of rattlesnakes along the approach.

28 Total Climbs

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Location: The Canal Zone Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Canal Zone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 166
Dirt Trek
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 315
Route Canal
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 743
Made In The Shade
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 231
The Whopper
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 173
Berga
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 483
Ivy League
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 585
Gondolier Arete
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 684
Panama Red
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 477
Beasto
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 344
Lambada
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 328
Bear's Choice
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 383
Batso Canal
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 447
Turkey Jerky
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 335
Aretnophobia
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 587
Walking With A Ghost
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dirt Trek
 166
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Route Canal
 315
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Made In The Shade
 743
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
The Whopper
 231
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Berga
 173
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ivy League
 483
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Gondolier Arete
 585
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Panama Red
 684
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Beasto
 477
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lambada
 344
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Bear's Choice
 328
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Batso Canal
 383
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Turkey Jerky
 447
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Aretnophobia
 335
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Walking With A Ghost
 587
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Canal Zone »

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