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Routes in The Canal Zone

Aretnophobia S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lame Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Jerky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopper, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Kirk Miller
Page Views: 9,497 total · 75/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details

Description

Traverse in from the corner, right of Route Canal, balance past the first clip and gain the arete. Pull the crux above the last bolt.

Location

See the topo photo.

Protection

7 bolts to chains.

Poison Ivy Alert

Eds. note, there [was] a bunch of PI at the base if you [started] up the slab.

Photos

Kris S
Gunbarrel, CO
  5.10a
Kris S   Gunbarrel, CO
  5.10a
Good rock, fun climbing, lichen on some [good] holds. Several options to start, 1st bolt too low / unnecessary because there is a good stance for clipping the second. Aug 13, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Another steep, fun route. The crux at the last bolt was a little tricky and felt harder than 10a.

On September 15, there were only a few remnants of poison ivy at the base, but be careful when you pull the rope. Sep 15, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Thoughtful 5.9ish climbing to off balance crux at the last bolt, grazing the 5.10a mark. First bolt is not necessary. Sep 24, 2008
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I'm going to disagree with the previous posters. I liked the first bolt! Thank you Kirk for putting it there. It may not be "necessary" if you don't fall, but the second bolt would be fairly far off the ground.

The climb is mostly 5.8-5.9 with one move near the top that makes it a bit more challenging. The last move is easier if you are taller. Oct 25, 2008
David House
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
David House   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Very aesthetic line, well bolted. I found it about 5.9+, but I am tall.
Thanks Kirk! Nov 3, 2008
Bjorn
WNC
 
Bjorn   WNC
 
Cool moves on the arete. A bit ho-hum until the very top, which is pleasantly baffling when you first encounter it. May 19, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.9
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.9
A nice climb. I don't know about 10, though. Maybe that's because there's a solid stance and a bolt waiting for you after each move. But, I was lulled into a casual state of mind to be startled awake when I got to the last move. Where did the bomber hands and feet go? You mean I'm actually going to have to think now! :)

As for whether or not the first bolt is needed...I've climbed a lot of routes with the first bolt as high up as the second bolt on this climb and there's a pretty good slab to stand on and clip the second bolt. So, yeah, it's high but it's pretty safe w/o the first bolt. Jun 19, 2009
Brett Bauer
  5.9
Brett Bauer  
  5.9
Crux move: everyone in my party moved to the right of the bolt. I think that move might go at 5.10. I found to the left and on the arete proper to go at maybe 10 also but more fun because you are on the arete! Either way both moves are fun, but like others say easier climbing to the one move make it more like 5.9. Aug 20, 2009
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
  5.9+
Jonathan Reeves   Golden, Colorado
  5.9+
This is a really fun route. I would say it's either a really hard 9 or a really easy 10. I had a blast. I completed the crux on the left hand side of the arete. I pushed of the foot hold with my right foot and used my left on the wall for balance until I hit the jug. Sep 13, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.9
Luke Childers  
  5.9
Good line, but it's really just a one move crux at the top of the wall. I thought 5.9-9+ was about right. Not a 5.10 I don't think. Still grades aside... a good line worth doing for sure. Sep 15, 2009
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9+
Very fun, quick crux - easy if you're tall. We didn't see ivy at the base of the slab - which is a fun start, but a little insecure w/o any bolts until you can stand and get the second one. Great route for beginning leaders - keep that first bolt on for them. Jun 2, 2010
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
5.10a
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
5.10a
Nice feature, one move wonder before the anchors. Do those who say it's a 5.9 think that the last move goes at that ? I don't. Jul 11, 2011
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.10-
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.10-
This route is 5.8 until the last move to the anchor ledge. There's a good right hand crimper and a little knob for a right foot. It's balancy but fun. Jul 18, 2011
Tadd Duncan
Lakewood, CO
Tadd Duncan   Lakewood, CO
Fun route! I'm thinking more in he 9 range tho. Crimp it and rip it! Jul 17, 2012
Many of you who think the first bolt on this route is too low are not climbing the route as described by Kirk Miller, who did the FA. If you read his description, you climb up to the first bolt from around the corner to the left very close to the start of Root Canal.

If you come in from the left side of the arete, you will appreciate the first bolt. If you start the route by climbing up the lower angle slab on the right, you might find the first bolt unnecessary. Oct 11, 2013
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
  5.10-
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
  5.10-
When the route went in, there was a huge patch of Poison Ivy at the base of the slab. Thus the original start and first bolt placement.
Thanks to the heroic efforts of Alex Duran and Kirk Raney, the area is now free of the noxious plant. Oct 11, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
Good moves up the arete - easier than it looks - to a crimpy Harmers Wood 5b finish. Oct 16, 2013
In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2014
Brad Gone
  5.10a/b
Brad Gone  
  5.10a/b
There is a small hold near the crux that is loose and will probably break off soon. It wiggles in place. It's a key foothold for the crux more and will likely make the route slightly harder when it breaks off. Apr 23, 2015
Kathryn H
  5.9+
Kathryn H  
  5.9+
5.7 climbing until a well-protected two-move crux, one move if you're tall. Did not feel like a 10a. 9+ at the most; good first 5.10 lead. Feb 16, 2016
Seb303
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Seb303   Denver, CO
  5.10a
I feel like you are cheating if you go right at the crux up top. Feels 5.9 that way. If you go straight up at the crux, that move felt 5.10. Either way it's a fun/cool route and worth doing. Apr 19, 2018

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