Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Bruce Hildenbrand
Page Views: 6,408 total · 50/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


248 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details

Description

Climb past the first roof protected by the second bolt and head up the slab. Pull into the final roof, step up left, and make a big reach left to a jug hidden on the arete to clip the anchors.

Staying right at the final roof and continuing up on big holds until you can reach left to the anchors provides an easier finish.

Location

This is left of Levada, see the
The Canal Zone. .

Protection

8 bolts to chain and ring anchors.

Photos

AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.10-
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.10-
The middle face is tricky towards the left... and the 2nd/final roof pull is a 10 move. Fun climb. Thoughtful, like most routes at this crag. Nov 19, 2008
Ralph Kolva
Pine, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Pine, CO
 
I think I counted 7 bolts on this route, not 8, plus the anchor. Apr 29, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Was thrilled with the route until I had to clip the anchor. Apr 29, 2009
Margo
  5.10a/b
Margo  
  5.10a/b
Fun thoughtful round...be brave and head straight up the middle face...to the right is easier but not as fun. The final roof pull is tough but reach up high and find the jug and you are good to go! May 7, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
A really fun climb. The second roof is definitely the crux. Find your feet fast or you're going to be staring at the anchors wondering how in the hell to move up. Jun 19, 2009
Lauren D. Hollingsworth
Colorado and Kentucky
  5.10-
Lauren D. Hollingsworth   Colorado and Kentucky
  5.10-
This is an excellent route! The movement was varied and really fun! Thanks for this wonderful addition to Clear Creek. Beta: remember to stem! Clipping the anchor is not unpleasant as has been suggested. Jun 27, 2009
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
Has anyone tried to climb the roof directly? I have tried top-roping it multiple times (and failed). Might be a good alternate start (with a couple more bolts, that is). Pulling the roof straight on felt like a V5 boulder problem, but a pretty cool one at that. Mar 31, 2010
Darren Buford
  5.10a/b
Darren Buford  
  5.10a/b
Terrific route. Lots of fun and imagination near the crux ending. Jun 3, 2010
Mike Kasberg
Denver, CO
  5.10-
Mike Kasberg   Denver, CO
  5.10-
There is a large rock to the right of the roof that already had some Xs on it in chalk when I climbed the route today. It feels solid, but it does have cracks running around the edges and looks like it could break off. The climb is possible without using it, but the roof move might be half a grade harder. Be aware of this when you climb this route or if you're belaying. Jun 5, 2010
As I was racking up for this route yesterday, one of the folks in my party noticed a whole lotta bees buzzing in and out of the rock between the first and second bolt. Being the hardman toughguy that I am, I promptly decided to pass on this route.... Jun 23, 2011
Don Morris
Golden, CO
  5.9
Don Morris   Golden, CO
  5.9
Fun route with varied options along the way to create your own challenges. I am finding the new climbs in Clear Creek to have an inflated rating of difficulty. This climb compared to Eldo or even Golden Cliffs would rate no higher than a 5.9. If this keeps up you might think you are a better climber than you are, until you dare to get on a Layton Kor 5.9. I would recommend keeping the ratings conservative for the respect of the crag, developer and climber. Sep 17, 2011
In regards to Don...I think the general public would rather have things rated on the higher side, only to find it a bit easier, than to go try a 5.9 that's actually a 5.10d...keeps everyone safer, in my opinion. Aug 18, 2012
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10b/c
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10b/c
Fun 2-move wonder! Will probably be easier next time/with better beta. Apr 1, 2013
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
  5.10a/b
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
  5.10a/b
With the X on that block by the roof, the options are now to go direct which is hard (more than 10a/b), or go left which is super easy. Sep 13, 2015