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Routes in The Canal Zone

Aretnophobia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lame Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Jerky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopper, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Alex Andrews. Variation left to finish: Ken Trout
Page Views: 9,355 total, 93/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Aug 1, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Enjoy your holiday, there might be a few twists and turns along the way, but the vacation isn't over till you pass the fork in the road and clip the anchors. Make your mind up at the fork; head left to keep your holiday casual or make a right for a trickier, more exciting finish.

Location

About 30 feet left of Beasto you'll find a rock staircase leading to your belay pad in the jungle. Holiday Road is furthest to the right, the first route you encounter. This route has a fun variation to finish; the left fork goes at a casual 5.7.

Protection

9 bolts to chain link anchors.
Jake Westfall
Austin, TX
  5.9
Jake Westfall   Austin, TX
  5.9
As others already noted, this is pretty clearly a trickier climb than Made In The Shade, which is nominally 5.9-. Factor that into your expectations accordingly. Worth doing, but if you're looking for a first warmup of the day (as I was), then you may have better luck with Box Of Rain. Oct 11, 2017
Caleb Gruber
Denver, CO
 
Caleb Gruber   Denver, CO
 
I am just getting into leading (have lead some 5.8s at North Table), and this route and Venice Beach next to it were very challenging leads! Really made me push myself, I tried so many hand and foot variations to get to the anchor and also took a fall/swing trying to make a move from the crack on the left, falling down a couple bolts. Tried straight from underneath and was able to manage on some very tenuous footing. Great practice for the nerves and a solid challenge! Jun 25, 2017
Paul Deger
Colorado
 
Paul Deger   Colorado
 
A better name for this route may be "Fatal Attraction." It starts fun and easy 5.6-7 then goes crazy from the last bolt to the finish. I first tried straight up on lead and could not find any combination of feet and hands that felt solid enough to make the push to the anchors. Going way left into gully/crack offered enough to go up, then I went right to the anchors. Second time up on TR, went right of rope, into the black stain and found workable feet/hands to go up but would not have felt comfortable doing so on lead (5.9). Third time on TR, after having discovered the anchors to the left, did a variation of the rope line off the left anchors (way left of bolt line) which made for a fun more solid 5.8 experience bottom to top.
I gave it a three due in part to many variations to play with. Aug 28, 2016
Ian Wymore
Denver, CO
  5.9-
Ian Wymore   Denver, CO
  5.9-
Mostly 5.7 moves until the end. Did the final moves straight on, and it was definitely tricky and felt 5.8/9. I later went up a second time on TR to clean the route and went right of the bolt line on the final moves. Slightly easier than the direct finish but way more fun in my opinion. Jun 1, 2016
In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2014
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.9-
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.9-
The last moves to the anchor are trickier than any move on 'Made In the Shade', which is rated 5.9-. All moves up to this point are pretty fun 5.6/7. May 10, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
Tricky finish - UK 5a. Oct 16, 2013
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7
If at the top you take the left side (up the gully/seam), it's 5.7, direct is solid 5.8(+) IMHO. Worth an extra half star (up to 1.5 *s) if done directly. Apr 1, 2013
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
 
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
 
I agree that the last 8-10 feet is the crux. That last bolt before the anchors was tough to get if you're staying left just a bit. You really have to stay direct on this route. All bolts and anchors are in great shape this week. May 10, 2012
I found the best way to get to the chains ( which can be considered unsafe) is to go a little right and up and over the top. Clove my rope to the anchors and swing back down. I usually do this if I'm just trying to set a top rope for people in a rush, but if you have the time, have fun jumpin to the chains on the direct route!! Aug 27, 2011
Alan Robertson
Denver, CO
5.8+ PG13
Alan Robertson   Denver, CO
5.8+ PG13
A friend slipped trying to get to the anchors last week. He hit the ledge below the headwall and broke his ankle. So be careful or give a tight belay to prevent similar accidents. Jun 29, 2011
Hardest part is getting a stance to clip the anchors. Aug 20, 2010
Jim Gloeckler
Denver, Colo.
Jim Gloeckler   Denver, Colo.
Start seems like 5.6 then a 5.7 move around the 50' level and then the finishing slab seems like 5.8+ to me. Thin holds and a few moves.
Slightly harder than the crux on Bitty Buttress or Upper Ruper for that matter; both being only 2 move cruxes. Just my opinion, but then again I'm getting older now. Three stars. Sep 4, 2009
Casey Lems
Lakewood, CO
  5.7
Casey Lems   Lakewood, CO
  5.7
I agree. Cruising 5.7 until the last move. You can go far left to make things easier, but going over the face is a stiff 5.8 move. Another great route, Thanks so much, Kirk! Can't wait to get on the others you have lined up! Aug 3, 2009
HansF
Jackson, WY
  5.8+
HansF   Jackson, WY
  5.8+
Nice meeting you today Kirt and Kirt! I'd say it's a sustained 5.7 until the very last move which I'd call a solid 5.8. It's probably a little harder because of the mass amount of lichen on it right now. Great job and thanks again for all your hard work on the crag! Aug 2, 2009
Alex Andrews  
 
A fun, easier climb, that makes you think at the crux, the last 8ft. Aug 2, 2009