Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kirk Miller with Kai & Courtney
Page Views: 8,756 total · 69/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

332 Opinions

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A fun Alley Oop move gets you past the first clip. Then up and left around the arete to snag the huecos, then back to the prow to finish. For bonus points avoid the huecos out left and go straight up the arete at the seventh bolt.


This is left of Turkey Jerky, see the topo photo.


11 bolts to ring & chain anchor.


Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
Great route! Makes you think twice at crux! Sep 1, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Pretty clever route! Crux move was interesting and off balance. Holds are solid. Consider a long draw for the bolt around the corner. Nice work! Sep 2, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
A longish draw might be helpful on the 7th bolt (around the corner), but the real key is to flip the rope around the arete after clipping the 8th bolt. Otherwise there's some rope drag.

Fun route! A crank at the start, cool undercling moves to a ledge, and a devious little crux on good holds. Well worthwhile. Sep 10, 2008
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
I was surprised at how much fun this route was.... The start is a pumpy little jump, but then the nature of the climb changes and it goes up a long way on interesting moves. Jun 5, 2009
Denver, CO
Niccole   Denver, CO
This has the best start!!! I would go back just to do the start, kind of a bouldering move...but well protected and then the climb changes. Very fun. Sep 2, 2009
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Very nice! Good variety for a single sport pitch. Apr 28, 2010
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
Definitely want to use some longer draws on the upper arete. Without the extra wiggle room, you can't really get the rope to run nicely. The shorter draws won't allow you to flip the rope back to the right side of the arete. Sep 25, 2010
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
Count Chockula   Littleton, CO
Fun climb, but soft even for 5.10-, maybe even a little contrived at the crux. The moves around/onto the arete seemed .9 at most. Not sure why the crux clip was on the face left of the arete proper. Seems like it should have been on the right side face of the arete in line with the other clips on the route. This would alleviate the need to use a longer draw and probably make the moves up the arete more 5.10ish. Then again, maybe I just did it wrong. I got suckered into using a couple chalked holds left of the arete while using the positive holds on the arete with my right hand. Aug 19, 2011
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
Easiest possible way, .9, but if you pull the direct arete and don't step left around the corner, pretty solid .10 so I'll go with .10-. Aug 19, 2011
Super fun route! Definitely leave a longer sling on the 7th and/or 8th bolt to avoid rope drag. Aug 20, 2012
Really fun. Nice variety and cool position high on the route. I thought the crux was tricky and do not agree with people above saying it goes at 5.9. Maybe I was missing the beta, but felt like 10b or so to me. Excellent climb for breaking into 10s, along with the other easy-ish 10s to the right of this route. Jul 29, 2016
Andres Fernandez
Boulder, Colorado
Andres Fernandez   Boulder, Colorado
Start is great and first 25 feet after is pretty straightforward.

Getting up to the face to turn the corner to the left is thought provoking.

Definitely some good intellectual problem solving on this route and nice variety of moves. Aug 1, 2016
Tombo   Boulder
My new favorite at Canal Zone (even though I hate roofs). Relatively consistent climbing with a break in the middle to eyeball the crux. It felt like Eldorado climbing, lots of fun! I'd agree with Kirk's assessment 5.9 to 5.10 dependent on line chosen. Aug 7, 2016
John T Wagner
Boulder, co
John T Wagner   Boulder, co
My friend left 4 of MY lockers and a double sling on the anchor at Beasto.... I would be very grateful if I got the chance to see them again. Beers? Thanks. Jul 19, 2017
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
This is incredible. Thank you VespeneGeyser! youtube.com/watch?v=h1yWYB3… Jun 10, 2018