Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Justin Winger
Page Views: 7,477 total · 63/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

228 Opinions

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The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire....
If you make Bear's Choice and pull for the left side, you'll be rewarded with a tricky .10 roof crux. Bail right and finish on Box of Rain for an easier alternative.
Take care to get clipped from the rail before attempting the crux. If you fall from the rail before you're clipped, you'll hit the slab below and likely break your ankle.


This is left of Box of Rain, it shares a start with Cut Loose.


8 bolts to chains.


Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Kirk, Kirk, Kirk is on fire!!
:) Aug 17, 2009
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO
I've been trying to "climb this crag out". But every time I turn around, Kirk adds another route. I'll be up there tomorrow to check out Bear's Choice. Canal Zone has shaped up to be a great crag for moderates. Aug 19, 2009
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
It is very easy to bail out right to the 5.8 climb at the overhang, therefore it seemed a bit contrived. Otherwise, a nice route. Good movement above the hang as well, and the lower moves off the ground felt 9/10ish. Sep 16, 2009
Dan Stackhouse
Lakewood, CO
Dan Stackhouse   Lakewood, CO
This route was a fun problem my first lead. I fell three times on the roof, then Jesse Reeves told me how to do it, and then it wasn't bad. Got a redpoint lead. Used a sideways crimper past the chalky triangle to pull myself over the roof. Jesse Reeves is a badass. Sep 18, 2009
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Good route for those pushing their limit at 5.10. Well-protected with options at roof from 10b on left to 8+ on right. Still challenging above roof. Kudos to Canal Zone, Kirk. Nov 23, 2009
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
You can use the first few bolts of this route to skip the crux of box of rain, making for a nice 5.7. Just clip the first 5 bolts and move right. Regardless of which route you choose, bring a long draw (or put two draws together) for the bolt before the roof. This reduces rope drag a lot. May 7, 2010
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
This is a fun route, but the roof itself didn't feel like the crux for me. Anyone else think the face after the roof was a bit harder? Sep 6, 2011
Really fun climb with great holds. I agree, Robert, that the face after the roof was a little harder but can't wait to climb it again. May 15, 2013
In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2014
Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
Theodore Morrow   Golden, Co
The crux is definitely not the roof, it's pulling out over it and getting your feet up, fun route for sure. Can easily top rope it by climbing the 5.8 next to it. Feb 18, 2016
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Word to the non-burly - getting over the roof was definitely a hard crux for me at 5'7" with short legs and most of my weight in my lower half. My technique is pretty good, but I fell off the crux 5 or 6 times, trying every hand and left foot placement I could find. I finally had to pull on some bullshit nubbin with my right hand to rock up onto the high right foot and stand up. I'll try it again to see if I missed something, but this was MUCH harder for me than Lambada. Past the roof is balancy, thin, and airy but not stout. Jul 12, 2016