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Routes in The Canal Zone

Aretnophobia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lame Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Jerky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopper, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Justin Winger
Page Views: 6,812 total, 68/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


194 Opinions

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Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire....
If you make Bear's Choice and pull for the left side, you'll be rewarded with a tricky .10 roof crux. Bail right and finish on Box of Rain for an easier alternative.
Take care to get clipped from the rail before attempting the crux. If you fall from the rail before you're clipped, you'll hit the slab below and likely break your ankle.

Location

This is left of Box of Rain, it shares a start with Cut Loose.

Protection

8 bolts to chains.

Photos

L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Word to the non-burly - getting over the roof was definitely a hard crux for me at 5'7" with short legs and most of my weight in my lower half. My technique is pretty good, but I fell off the crux 5 or 6 times, trying every hand and left foot placement I could find. I finally had to pull on some bullshit nubbin with my right hand to rock up onto the high right foot and stand up. I'll try it again to see if I missed something, but this was MUCH harder for me than Lambada. Past the roof is balancy, thin, and airy but not stout. Jul 12, 2016
Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
  5.10a/b
Theodore Morrow   Golden, Co
  5.10a/b
The crux is definitely not the roof, it's pulling out over it and getting your feet up, fun route for sure. Can easily top rope it by climbing the 5.8 next to it. Feb 18, 2016
In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2014
Really fun climb with great holds. I agree, Robert, that the face after the roof was a little harder but can't wait to climb it again. May 15, 2013
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
  5.10a
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
  5.10a
This is a fun route, but the roof itself didn't feel like the crux for me. Anyone else think the face after the roof was a bit harder? Sep 6, 2011
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
You can use the first few bolts of this route to skip the crux of box of rain, making for a nice 5.7. Just clip the first 5 bolts and move right. Regardless of which route you choose, bring a long draw (or put two draws together) for the bolt before the roof. This reduces rope drag a lot. May 7, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Good route for those pushing their limit at 5.10. Well-protected with options at roof from 10b on left to 8+ on right. Still challenging above roof. Kudos to Canal Zone, Kirk. Nov 23, 2009
Dan Stackhouse
Lakewood, CO
  5.10b
Dan Stackhouse   Lakewood, CO
  5.10b
This route was a fun problem my first lead. I fell three times on the roof, then Jesse Reeves told me how to do it, and then it wasn't bad. Got a redpoint lead. Used a sideways crimper past the chalky triangle to pull myself over the roof. Jesse Reeves is a badass. Sep 18, 2009
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
It is very easy to bail out right to the 5.8 climb at the overhang, therefore it seemed a bit contrived. Otherwise, a nice route. Good movement above the hang as well, and the lower moves off the ground felt 9/10ish. Sep 16, 2009
Tom R
Denver, CO
 
Tom R   Denver, CO
 
I've been trying to "climb this crag out". But every time I turn around, Kirk adds another route. I'll be up there tomorrow to check out Bear's Choice. Canal Zone has shaped up to be a great crag for moderates. Aug 19, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Kirk, Kirk, Kirk is on fire!!
:) Aug 17, 2009