Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Kirk Miller
Page Views: 9,665 total · 75/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Aug 3, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

268 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details


Use a stick clip or pull the .10+ bouldery start to clip the first bolt (can be protected with finger sized cams), clip the second bolt from a hidden jug on the left, traverse right and balance out onto your perch on the arete (the bailout left is fun too), find the pockets and mount the bulge to reach the anchors. Beware the bat.


This is right of Made In The Shade, see the topo photo.


Eight bolts to chains.


Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Great moves in the middle section of the climb, especially getting onto the arete. Aug 9, 2008
Kris S
Gunbarrel, CO
Kris S   Gunbarrel, CO
A little awkward for most of the route, follows 3 distinct features for only 1/2 of their length then the climbing ends abruptly. Still dirty and looks like several holds will come off with traffic. There could definitely be a direct start thru the steep rock into the arete. Aug 13, 2008
Tim Kline
Littleton, co
Tim Kline   Littleton, co
The start of this climb is definitely the crux; however, getting out onto the arete is also tricky. I felt that this was more like a 5.11- than a .10+. Great climb though! Aug 31, 2008
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
I loved this route. Fun beginning with a few strength/reach moves, traverse to the arete, then an awesome and well protected move to get going up the exposed corner.

I had the pleasure of meeting the man responsible for this route last time there--many thanks should go his way for putting this great wall together. Thanks Kirk (and I did nail it clean on my 2nd try!) Sep 11, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Interesting and imaginative line! Moves getting to the arete are memorable and fantastic. Finishing jug haul is a hoot. Sep 24, 2008
David House
Boulder, CO
David House   Boulder, CO
Very nicely bolted, thanks Kirk!
The start is very bouldery; I'm sure I could work out a much smoother sequence with repeat ascents. I went too far right, then too far left and made it much harder than it needs to be. Getting on to the climb is the crux! Nov 3, 2008
Chris JD
Golden, Co
Chris JD   Golden, Co
Really fun route. Thanks for putting it up Kirk, and good to meet you this evening! May 19, 2009
Good route. A bouldery move mixed in with some balancey moves. My favorite lead here at this wall. It felt about 5.10. Jun 18, 2009
Bruce Pech
Bruce Pech   Boulder
Nice, Kirk. A smidge better and harder than Beasto and Turkey Jerky. Cool moves traversing out to the arete. The start was a bit reachy for 5'3" Wendy. Jun 22, 2009
Jack C Swift
Evergreen, CO
Jack C Swift   Evergreen, CO
Tough start, but very interesting and balancy moves. I went up to the undercling before taking the airy step out to the arete. Interesting route. Sep 1, 2009
Phill T
Phill T  
The direct line is also fun to fire off on TR. Maybe 10d/11a, rejoins the main line at the 3rd or 4th bolt. Great line with either start! Aug 14, 2010
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
My favorite 10 at Canal Zone. Two cruxes. 1 getting to the first bolt (dyno!), and 2 getting out onto the arete. I found the start to be really physical followed by sustained climbing. Lesser crux getting out onto the arete. Both cruxes are easier for tall people.
Felt like a darn tough 10, just shy of the 11 mark. Jul 22, 2011
Jake Web
Denver, CO
Jake Web   Denver, CO
IDK why, but I always climb Aretnephobia and can get it clean, but I can't get his damn climb clean at ALL.

Maybe it's just my style of climbing, maybe it's my routefinding (this climb WINDS, for what reason??? I have no idea).

Maybe it's the bouldery start which I still haven't been able to dial down clean without getting real scared of decking on.

It bugs me. I don't like it. Jun 25, 2017
Matthew Abraham
Denver, CO
Matthew Abraham   Denver, CO
My friend and I were able to work out a smooth sequence for the start. The key is a somewhat hidden hold in the crack that makes for a solid enough left hand. Grab a decent right-facing sidepull with your right hand. Stay leaning to the left, find a low intermediate left foot, and find the solid high right foot just above the lip. From there, the left-hand reach to the jug rail just to the left of the first bolt is a relatively low effort move.

Finding this sequence really improved my opinion of the route -- the rest is a blast. Jul 26, 2017