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Routes in The Canal Zone

Aretnophobia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lame Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Jerky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopper, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ken Trout & Mike Cichon
Page Views: 1,570 total, 92/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jul 22, 2016 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Ascend a fun slab with more features than there appear to be from the ground. Negotiate an easy section of rock to a #0.75-1 sized crack below a bolt. Plug in a piece of gear, and maneuver your way up to through a featured dihedral to a juggy finishing headwall. This is a very fun route.

Protection

10 (11?) bolts + #1 Camalot and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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You can just get down with a 60m rope. It doesn't seem like it when you are climbing, but because the route veers to the right up near the top (watch for rope drag), the rappel is OK with a 60m though you are close to the ends.

Dale Haas and I added 3/8" SS quick links and Mussy hooks to the anchor. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - safeclimbing.org). Your support is greatly appreciated. Oct 25, 2017
Kenny Holton
Golden, CO
Kenny Holton   Golden, CO
Did this route today 10/24/17, well almost the whole route. I do agree that after the 3rd bolt it gets easier and also agree that I feel like it needs another bolt. We were looking at the Denver climb guide and didn’t realize that this was the route we chose, since there was a new route added since the book was published. I didn’t feel like having my partner finish, since we were almost at the halfway mark on the rope and she couldn’t see the anchor. Had to leave a draw. Oct 24, 2017
Fun route but not not sure if it is really sport or trad. Only one cam would be needed for safety. As a sport route, there is a big runout that would have you hitting the ledge if you fell. Really needs one more bolt.

Also note that using short draws will lead to a lot of rope friction. A longer draw in one or two locations will save you a lot of drag. Jun 25, 2017
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.8
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.8
This is a good route and good addition to the Zone. A full 30 meter pitch. Nice job, Ken & Mike. Jun 18, 2017
dhatstat  
 
Was an additional bolt added to this route? We counted 11 yesterday not including the anchor bolts. Climbed without feeling a need for any additional gear. Apr 24, 2017
For a crag that is almost entirely sport bolted, it is a bit of a surprise to get more than halfway up where you can't see from the ground and hit somewhere you are expected to place a piece of trad gear. I got on this today without knowing about needing a cam, and it made for a cautious lead given the runout even though I am pretty solid into the mid 10s. I'm just suggesting to add a bolt (even if you could reasonable protect it with trad gear that most climbers at Canal Zone are unlikely to have). Route Canal is the only trad route there, and as it is fully trad, no one would mistakenly get on it without gear.

Also, it is probably worth noting this is a rope stretcher with a 60m.

Really enjoyed it - a great addition to Canal Zone, but please add a bolt to be consistent with everything else there being fully bolted. Aug 7, 2016
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
 
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
 
Climbed this again today. Second run up this route left me feeling like it was more in the 5.8 range. Jul 24, 2016
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
"Dirt Trek" is the name I heard, unless they change their mind.... FA: Mike C. and Ken Trout.

They both led this on gear before hand drilling on lead. I was passing by and loaned them a drill to finish up.... First 2 bolts are 1/2" Powers, the rest are 3/8" X 3.5" KB3s, all stainless.

I can't believe how much drama has surrounded this climb!?! This is not the back room at Earth Treks. If you don't know what it is, there is a chance you might need gear.... Plus, the whole cliff is falling down (if you haven't noticed). Yer gonna die.

Tricky slab move at 3rd bolt the rest is 5.7(or less). Dirty but fun. Jul 22, 2016