Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Adam Schrader
Page Views: 6,951 total · 61/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Aug 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

142 Opinions

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Clip the first two bolts on Bear's Choice then head left into the middle of the roof. Getting the jug that lets you Cut Loose is the crux, match and let 'em fly.


This climbs the center of the roof, up... up... and away.


7 bolts to chains.


Derek Lawrence   Bailey
VERY height-dependent crux! Felt 11+ to me, but I still didn't get it... (I'm 5'9"). Another friend (also short) got it and said it felt 11+/12-. Kirk makes it look easy, but he's 6'2".... Sep 11, 2009
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
I am 6'2" and still had trouble. Wear pants for this one, as it is a knee scratcher. Sep 16, 2009
Sung Baek
Denver, CO
Sung Baek   Denver, CO
Tough route if you are shorter (I'm 5'8"). I led the other 11 here clean, but no chance on this one even on toprope. Sep 30, 2009
Denver, CO
koreo   Denver, CO
Lead this one today in that wicked wind. First try, got to the crux and was perplexed. The feet are horrible. I personally thought this wasn't very height dependent after I figured it out. Sure a tall person will have an easier time, but I'm 5'6" and I 'sent it on my second attempt. You have to get creative with your feet. Don't get me wrong though, the move to start the crux is hard as hell. If anyone wants my beta give a shout and I'd be happy to post it. Oct 1, 2009
dameeser   denver
I just jumped for it, so did my partner. Feet were not that important to me on that one. Mar 31, 2010
Climbed this on Sunday with 4 stitches in my right index finger, did not feel like an 11, felt more like a stiff 10. It really is a one move wonder, A nice undercling to a few good jugs, pull up then place your feet. Did it for the first time lead last fall also. Apr 19, 2010
Sauce Purvis
Golden, CO.
Sauce Purvis   Golden, CO.
Yup, very height-dependent.... I am 5'11", and I think it would be a different move altogether if I was 5'10". This is one where reach makes a difference for sure! Mar 14, 2011
Fred C.
Golden, CO
Fred C.   Golden, CO
Great route. Tough crux move if shorter (I'm 5'6"), but very doable. Took me a few tries to get it. It's an easy climb to the roof and after the crux move over it, but those few moves in between definitely define it and make it the 10+/11- that it is. Great bolt protection throughout. Apr 29, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11a PG13
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11a PG13
I'm 5'8" and had to stretch pretty darn hard to reach the onsight (the key hold is an optical illusion in that it doesn't look like anything from below). After you gain the positive edge, it's just a high step and a hard pull to the easy stuff on the headwall above. This climb receives no fun points from me. Not worth doing IMO unless you are tall and trying to add an eleven to your tick list; it is an annoying 10+/11- move with ledge fall potential in the midst of a dull 5.7 face. Sorry to be such a negative Nancy; on a lighter note, the 11 face around the corner is among the best in the Denver area :) May 7, 2011
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
I think this is the worst route at the cliff... maybe it is my being short bias, but it isn't any fun. Boring 5.7 climbing to the roof followed by a ridiculous reach. If you can get the jug, it is one interesting 10+ move to pull over the roof, followed by more boring climbing.

I'm way too short to reach the jug and was trying to bump up on crap, but the rope kept getting in my way. Either you don't clip the bolt above the roof and risk a ledge fall, or the rope makes in very hard to get your hand up and your foot around. May 10, 2011
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
Interesting 5.10-ish moves for the first two clips give way to the roof. There was a hornet's nest forming at the roof which I demolished before finishing out the climb. The crux sequence is fun, and a bit committing. There are some small holds that are useful for shorter climbers under the roof. One 5.11 move guarantees the summit. You can clip with one hand off the jug off the roof with your feet dangling, not that I'd ever do anything like that ;-). Fun for spectators and climbers alike. Give it a go! Jun 24, 2011
Jonathan Dykhuis
Jonathan Dykhuis  
The roof is interesting. The rest of the climb is enjoyable but not difficult. Jul 14, 2011
Robbie Flick
Baltimore, MD
Robbie Flick   Baltimore, MD
Definitely height-dependent. I'm 5'11" and have to leap for it. Jul 30, 2011
Denver, CO
J P   Denver, CO
Even at 5'8" I didn't have to jump far to get the rail on the roof. I'm not sure height is an issue so much as committing to reach over -- it definitely feels exposed up there.

The little left-hand flake on the lip of the roof helps a little, but you're better off throwing for the roof as soon as you have even a marginal grip on it.

It might be possible that being too tall makes pulling over the roof more difficult. After you get both hands on the rail, you'd have to scrunch up pretty good to put your feet on if you were tall. Aug 28, 2011
NickinCO   colorado
1 move wonder. 11-/10+ I/m 6'1", it's not a bad reach, it's just committing. The jug is huge. Mar 31, 2012
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
I'm 5'11" +0 ape, and I can do the move statically. I'll decline to grade, but this is worlds easier than Walking with a Ghost at 11b. Apr 21, 2013
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
Fun move, not as height-dependent as some would suggest. Just drop your knee. I'm 5'9 and can almost do it statically. The move felt like a soft 11a, the rest of the climb is maybe 10a. Jun 23, 2013
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
Evergreen, CO
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee   Evergreen, CO
With a 6' 6 wingspan it didn't feel too hard, but I think 11- is probably appropriate for the less lanky people in the world. Sep 26, 2013
In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2014
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Fun, gutsy, one-move 11- wonder.

SPOILER ALERT! Ape arms help; if you got 'em, use 'em. All that liberally-chalked, intermediate bullshit is best left untouched. Grabbeth thy mighty underclings, lock that core down, and windmill your right hand up--all tha way up--for glory. Match, and indeed, cut loose. (Freeing the feet comes naturally. It worked well for me long before having read this description.)

A word about the bolting, though. I call this one "gutsy" not because the falls would in any way be dramatic, but because the first roof bolt puts you in a bad way for rope burn. Far better would be to have put it high and right, out of the way. As is, I think your best bet for success is to gain the hero edge first with your right hand, z-clip left, then unclip that first roof bolt and THEN cut loose and continue. (All that may sound cryptic, but it'll all make sense once you're there. JUST REMEMBER TO SKIP ALL THAT INTERMEDIATE BULLSHIT...if'n' you're long enough....) Jun 26, 2014
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
Mostly easy climbing with just a couple of bouldery moves, not something I’d go out of the way to climb, but an easy 11 to tag if you’re in the area. I don’t think it is as height-dependent as some suggest. I’m 5’7" with 0 ape index, and I did all the moves statically. The crux is protected really well with two bolts, one under the roof and one just over the lip. Clipping the bolt over the lip is a different story though, if you fall while clipping it, you’ll most likely hit the slab below. SPOILER ALERT: I clipped the bolt over the lip while hanging on a tiny crimper at the lip, before I knew where the jug was. This is a strenuous clip especially since your waist will still be below the roof bolt, so you can only pull up a bit of a slack at a time, but if you’re onsighting, it is a less committing clip, because you can downclimb back to the alcove and recover after. If you clip this way, I would do what Top Rope Hero suggested above: intentionally zip-clip first (to make the clip faster, but not less dangerous), downclimb to the alcove, unclip the roof bolt from climber side of the rope then reclip it to the belayer side of the rope (thus fixing the z-clip). Rest as long as you want, then fire up the crux taking comfort in the protection of a toprope. May 18, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
Perhaps 10d for 6'2" (me) and 11b for 5'9" (my partner). Sep 25, 2017
IClimbStuff Braun  
My partner is 5'10" and had a bit of trouble turning the roof.

I'm 8'4" and just reached around the roof and clipped the anchors from below. 5.7ish at best. Dec 3, 2017
Latvian climber
Latvian climber  
Maybe I didn't find the right holds, but pulling over the roof felt very hard. All you have to pull on are crimps, and there are no feet besides either using a crappy slopey toe on the underside of the roof, or doing a massively high right foot (my eventual beta of choice). Oct 21, 2018