Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Morin & Jason Haas
Page Views: 4,805 total · 67/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details


Make a few moves off the ground to a featured and low angle slab that leads to another headwall and the crux. This climb is likely to feel more difficult if you are short.


7 bolts.


Todd Felix
Todd Felix  
Felt easier than 5.10 to me, but perhaps I didn't follow the intended line. There was a lot of lichen and some loose rock, including a large flake toward the top (last 2 bolts) that seems like it should be trundled. The hardest part was trying to avoid that flake; it's the best hold around there. Maybe there's a good route under there, but it could use some cleaning. Jul 19, 2013
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
Nothing too hard, but I do feel it's 10a for this area. Seemed clean enough except for a few easy feet in the middle, the one loose block is marked with an X. Nice little addition to Canal Zone, thanks! Jul 29, 2013
Nathaniel Harter
Thornton, CO
Nathaniel Harter   Thornton, CO
I haven't climbed in a year due to living in Wisconsin, I just moved up here and this was my first climb. It was a touch dirty, but it is also a really new climb. If you climb straight towards the last two bolts, I would give it a 5.10a rating, but if you head off-track a bit like I did, I would give it a 5.9 rating.

Great fun climb, the loose rock is marked with an X; after meeting one of the route setters, Jason I believe, he explained that the loose rock is in there pretty well.

Thanks a ton for this great addition to Canal Zone! Aug 5, 2013
Lil Rest day
Golden, CO
Lil Rest day   Golden, CO
The Canal Zone could always use more routes as it's often a circus in the summer, even on weekdays. That being said, this is not a bad route. I thought that most of it was 5.8ish except 1 or 2 moves toward the top, getting to that big chalked up V-shaped hold. Going off to the left through the bush is also possibly an option but may or may not be easier and just seemed dirty to me. Cool addition overall! Thanks, bolters! Aug 5, 2013
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
Just to clear up some possible speculation, and though off topic from the comments above, I feel I should address this.

The trees that were removed at the base of the climb were not removed by myself or Jason. The removal was the result of a mistake made by JCOS staff that thought the gate which was installed on the wooden flume to the west was going to be placed at the location of Buckets. The route occurred as a result of this mistake, but I would not, nor would I support the removal of such large trees to make way for a route. Aug 6, 2013
Felt easier than a 5.9. Esp. when the consensus for Made In The Shade is a 9- which I found 10x harder than this route, course I have no slabby skills. Apr 13, 2014
John Martin
Kearns, UT
John Martin   Kearns, UT
There is a busy bee hive on the right side that looks scary. Fortunately, they didn't attack. Jun 27, 2014
E Johnson
Boulder, CO
E Johnson   Boulder, CO
Enjoyed this route today. I got stuck at the undercling at the roof and decided the route went right (the next bolt is up and right, and foot and hand holds were over there). Maybe I dumbed it down, but I wasn't the first person to go that way. I didn't see an "X" on anything and tested everything before using it. Enjoyable. The way I went it was probably a little easier than Made In The Shade. I saw the very active bee nest from above; it's behind the bushes to the right at the base. No reason to go into that area. Keep your dogs and kids close, and you should not have an angry bee problem. Jul 6, 2014
Rob Baumgartner
Rob Baumgartner   Niwot
IMO, if you go straight at the top (using the off-fingers crack with your right hand), it's 10a or 10b. If you cheat it by heading out to the short arete above the bush on the left, it's maybe 8+. Aug 5, 2014
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
That's the way we climbed it and bolted it. There was discussion around the fact that some people would cheat left, but we felt that the most enjoyable climbing was up the crack feature. Aug 6, 2014
Golden, CO
samwagner   Golden, CO
Found a fairly new pair of shoes beneath this climb yesteray, 1/28/15. Please write me describing them if they are yours, and I will get them back to you! Jan 29, 2015
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Fun route. The scary hollow block is still there as of June 2016. I avoided the undercling roof by going up the face to the right and then peeled left to avoid the hollow block and finished on the left arete. I'd agree with Baumer that the route is more like 5.8 when done this way. Tried the crack finish on TR. Felt a bit soft if you use the big, chalky holds to the right of the crack - maybe more like a 9. Jul 11, 2016