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Routes in The Canal Zone

Aretnophobia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lame Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Jerky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopper, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Kirk Raney
Page Views: 17,534 total, 153/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pull out of the alcove, laybacking a hanging flake, to engage the long sustained face above. Be sure to look around and find all the amazing pockets for full value on this one.

Location

See the topo photo.

Protection

20 bolts to the (upper) anchors help keep this route easy for its grade. You'll also need something for the chains at the top and at least a 70 meter rope. Even with a 70 meter rope, lowering from the top is a rope stretcher... be sure to tie a knot in the end.

An anchor has also been installed about 25 feet below the original finish, at the top of the slab, to allow ascent with a 60 meter rope; 17 bolts + something for the ring and chain (lower) anchors. As above, so below... be sure to tie a knot in the end.
S. Neoh
5.9
S. Neoh  
5.9
Our 70m rope got the leader up to the upper anchors and down to the ground with some length leftover. Of course, YMMV. Solid 2.5 star route. Do it. Sep 6, 2017
To the guy who set up the 4 locking carabiner anchor that I cleaned, sorry, I took your anchor by mistake. PM me, and I'll mail it back. Aug 7, 2017
ScoJo
Boulder, CO
ScoJo   Boulder, CO
I wasn't there or know Cameron at all, but you can see this mountainproject.com/v/fundr… (fundraiser for Cameron) and this mountainproject.com/v/clear… for information on the accident. Nov 22, 2016
Today there was an accident, and a climber fell what seems like the full length (100') of the route from the first anchor. I was one of the several other climbers there in another group, and we are really hoping to hear from someone about how he (Cameron was his name I think) is doing. We're pulling for you, dude!

We managed to pull down what was left of the rope after I cut it, but the QDs stayed up the route, which the rangers closed off shortly after everyone left. Nov 11, 2016
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Enjoyed this route! We did it as a 2-pitch climb to give my belayer her first multi-pitch experience in a safe environment where we could talk to each other between the first and 2nd belay stations. Perfect for this purpose if you don't mind a hanging belay or two...and the fact that my 60 meter rope didn't make it to the ground from the lower anchor. We ended up rapping to the end of the rope (with stopper knots), then clipping in direct to the first bolt, getting off rappel, and downclimbing for a little extra problem-solving spice. The climb itself was super fun. There were a few thoughtful moves for me, like a nice hand-foot match to avoid slabby hands. Oh, also, be careful when pulling your rope so that it doesn't get wrapped around the boulder on top of the ledge 15 feet off the ground. Lastly, does that big block / flake above and right of the first bolt that you want to lieback on to pull onto the first big ledge seem precarious to anyone else? Feels like it might come out if you pull hard enough or weigh enough. Jul 10, 2016
Tradgic Yogurt
  5.9-
Tradgic Yogurt  
  5.9-
Gave someone a piggyback ride today so they could undo the stopper knots on a 70m rapping from upper anchor. Caveat emptor. Great route! May 26, 2016
Dale Haas and I replaced the quicklinks and chain at the highest anchor (70m rope) with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. Your support is greatly appreciated. Sep 30, 2015
Keaton Soto-Olson 1
Breckenridge, CO
 
Keaton Soto-Olson 1   Breckenridge, CO
 
5.9- is fair. I didn't feel anything close to 5.10 climbing, maybe the start but there was certainly an easier way to do it than the way I pulled it. Jun 21, 2015
In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the first(60m rope) anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2014
Felt harder than a 9 to me, of course, one of the first, slabby, no hands type of climbs I have done. I would rate it a 10 or 10+.

For the rope length discussion, the group rapping off before us, rapped from the top anchors with a 70m, and she was tippy toes to the ground at the end, maybe 3" off the ground. This probably depends on rope stretch, age of rope, and weight of climber, I am guessing she was 130 lbs. Apr 13, 2014
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
  5.9-
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
  5.9-
DO IT! Awesome warmup. Great for a 5.9 leader. Tons of bolts. Plenty of rests along the way. My 70m ends up with a foot or 2 extra after rope stretch is gone. Every 60m I've ever used on it gets right around maxed out to the low anchors. Oct 14, 2013
Chris Barker
Denver, CO
  5.9-
Chris Barker   Denver, CO
  5.9-
Well bolted. Great first outside 9 lead. Be sure to wear a helmet as the belayer. I got a crabapple kicked a couple of feet from me.

I rapped the top anchors with a 70 meter rope, and I was able to touch the ground, barely. TIE A KNOT FOR SURE. Under rope stretch, you are able to tell if you can reach the ground while standing on top of a significant ledge with a downclimb. Make a choice at this point.

There are 2 anchors at the top. The last 15 feet is not the best part of the climb, so if you have a 60 meter or if you aren't sure, I would just hit the bottom anchors. Mar 25, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.9
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.9
Super long super fun. Like 5th of July but better exposure and much longer. Lower anchors can be done with a 60, but baaaaaarely. Oct 12, 2011
slim

  5.9-
slim    
  5.9-
Kind of scary reading the comments about the variation in length of people's 70m rope. Our 70 easily made it to the ground from the upper anchor with maybe 5 to 10 feet to spare.

Really fun, long route. Good rock quality, well protected. This is destined to be a classic. Aug 9, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
Great warm up with beautiful exposure. Don't make the same mistake I did and only take 11 draws (I should really consider looking at the routes before I climb them). May 7, 2011
The route itself is awesome. Lots of awesome face moves, standing on little edges, very nice route for a new leader.

I climbed this a couple days ago with a relatively new 60m rope, and by the time I had rapped down to the big ledge at about the third bolt, the ends of the rope were still about 6 feet above the ground. I *may* have made it all the way down with rope stretch, but I didn't want to risk it. In the end, I found I could rap down the left side (towards Gondolier Arete) and make it onto dirt with no problem.

Could someone include an exact bolt count getting to the first anchor in the route description? Since most people are climbing with 60s, that seems to be quite a crucial piece of info. Aug 20, 2010
Justin Deal
Denver, CO
  5.9-
Justin Deal   Denver, CO
  5.9-
Just climbed this route. It was pretty fun. I think solid for the grade. I'm a new 5.9 leader, and I got this climb with two takes and no falls. All the talk of 70 meter ropes not getting you to the ground scared me a little, but I used a 70 meter Mammut Tusk 9.8 double dry rope fresh out of the bag, and made it all the way down on rappel with no problems. I would say this climb is a must-do for the area. Aug 4, 2010
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
 
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
 
Another great route, Kirk, thanks! I really enjoyed this, especially the middle section. Our 70m rope worked fine but no extra! These long pitches are great, I'm not sure there was a solid 5.9 move, but there is a lot of climbing on this. I counted 21 clips plus the two bolt upper anchor including one clip at the intermediate anchor. Jul 31, 2010
Cerri
 
Cerri  
 
My favorite 5.9 sport route! This is a must do if you're there. My 70m rope has always gotten me to the ground. Jun 23, 2010
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9
Our 70m did not look like it would get down from the upper anchors, and another group said their 60m didn't make it down from the lower anchors -- everyone's rope is a little different.

Good long pitch! Jun 2, 2010
Dan Stackhouse
Lakewood, CO
  5.9-
Dan Stackhouse   Lakewood, CO
  5.9-
I counted 17 bolts to the 60m anchor. Overhang at the bottom is a fun alternate start maybe 9+. Sep 11, 2009
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.9-
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.9-
A bit overbolted for someone solid, but I just skip the unneeded ones. Great for new leaders to push hard, and it's fun to have those areas for them. Nice and sustained but with plenty of rests to milk if you want and good footwork keeps it from being too hard. Be very careful lowering off this route, make sure your belayer knows what they're doing. Sep 6, 2009
Tom Pierce
Englewood, CO
Tom Pierce   Englewood, CO
Heads Up! My buddy and I climbed this today and concur it's a fun route, but as he was working up the very first moves he pulled on the hanging flake mentioned in the route intro above and a big chunk popped off. We were pretty surprised since the piece was probably 3-4" thick, it looked pretty beefy up to that point. The heads up is that on closer inspection the lower part of the flake looks a bit rotten and I suspect it also could pop off resulting in a potentially nasty ground fall on lead. Just fyi. Aug 25, 2009
Jack C Swift
Evergreen, CO
  5.9-
Jack C Swift   Evergreen, CO
  5.9-
Fun and interesting route. You are never longing for a bolt. There seem to be 2 cruxes, one just past halfway and the other just below the new (first) anchors. You get your money's worth - a 60m rope just gets you to the ground (10 inches to spare from lower anchors). Thanks, Kirk. Jul 29, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.9
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.9
A really fun climb! Steep after the first few bolts but not too pumpy. Thought provoking. Jun 19, 2009
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
  5.9-
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
  5.9-
A fun and mellow route with interesting features and positions. A bit obnoxiously overbolted, but, oh well. The existence of the second set of anchors I regard with a bit of confusion and concern. For one, the remaining climbing from anchor #1 to anchor #2 is far from remarkable. But more importantly, lowering from this second anchor with a 70m will get you to the ground only with extreme attention and caution on the part of you and your belayer. Even rope stretch and tippytoes won't get you quite to dirt. To me this is a major shortcoming, considering there are more inattentive sport climbers in the world than there are 80m ropes going around. It is a matter of time before some morons get hurt here. May 19, 2009
Margo
  5.9-
Margo  
  5.9-
Great beginner lead! Really well bolted and mostly straightforward moves! Some spots require a little thought! New bolts allow for a 60 and 70 meter to get to the ground...route requires about 22 draws or you can skip some of the redundant bolts if you feel comfortable! May 7, 2009
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
New, lower anchor compliments of Bruno Haché. Thanks Bruno. Sep 28, 2008
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.8+
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.8+
The halfway point of my 70 was hanging around the 3rd bolt when my partner hit the top. It is all about stretch, mine made it right to the bottom, others won't. Still, not a scary downclimb... or even drop right off the end if you're not too far up. Sep 15, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A really fun pitch with a bunch of 5.9 moves. Well bolted for a 5.9 leader; more advanced climbers may be comfortable skipping a few clips.

My 70m rope (Mammut Infinity Duodess) was not long enough to lower the leader to the ground; it came up about 20' short.

There is a good ledge about 15 feet below the top anchor; I think it would be a good idea to install an anchor here, to allow lowering all the way to the ground for those of us with shorter or less stretchy 70m ropes. The last 15' of climbing is fun, but I think a lower anchor will improve the safety and reduce the hassle factor of the climb. Sep 15, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
  5.9+
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
  5.9+
Wow! I must have missed some holds..I hate it when you offer up a grade, then everyone comes along and...anyway, still a nice climb! Peace Young Doug Sep 2, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9-
Fun climb. Bolted well for the grade. 13-20 clips depending on your comfort level. Thoughtful clips, though, to protect ledge falls. My 70m made it. The route could have stopped at the ledge at the second to last bolt, then everyone's rope would make it. No complaints, though, fun long route. The jugs in the middle were a hoot. Sep 2, 2008
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.9-
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.9-
Excellent climb. Sustained in rock quality and climbing. Cleaning will help in quality and ease the difficulty a bit.

I echo the comments about a 70m rope being short. I came up short, and even though my rope has lost a meter, it is longer than 115' to ground. 70m = 230' , or 115' rap with one rope. If it is a 125' climb, then you will be short with a 70m rope.

I would certainly support a belay/rap to make it a 2 or 1 pitch climb. Aug 29, 2008
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.8
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.8
Very well bolted, a very good climb for a new leader.

Lowering my partner, I reached the (knotted) end of the rope when her feet were just above my head and I had to climb up a ways so her feet could touch the ground and she could unweight the rope and untie. Being quite a bit heavier, I got to the ground on rope stretch. Aug 27, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9-
No, not the longest. Aug 14, 2008
Legs Magillicutty
Durango
 
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
 
A 70 meter rope will work just fine. But it is EXACTLY the right length. Any shorter and you're going to have to downclimb.

This is a really fun climb. Is it the longest in the canyon? It is the best warmup. I'd climb it any day. Great work Kirk. I love it! Aug 13, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
  5.9+
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
  5.9+
This is a really cool route. The crux, and the slab above have a nice flow. Super well bolted, we often found ourselves clipping draws at our waists; however, it is very well suited to someone looking to lead their first .9+...as we all thought the route to be due to the sustained nature of the beautiful slab. Nice and long warm-up, especially when led with two 60s. Young Doug. Aug 3, 2008
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
 
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
 
Maybe my 70m rope is a bit longer, but I made it to the bottom just fine with about 6 inches of rope to spare. Jul 27, 2008
A 70 meter will not get you on the ground. It takes you to the third bolt where you have any easy downclimb to the the climber's left side. It would be better to take 2 sixties and rap the route. Jul 25, 2008