Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,175 total · 72/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details


Climb the clean dihedral crack, face climb past the bolt and pull through to the anchors.


See the photo topo.


Gear to 4" and one bolt, finish at the anchors on Gondolier Arete.


Gear used 2 #1 Cams, 2 #0.75, and 1 or 2 #0.5 cams. I also used one quickdraw. A little mungy after the bolt. A better alternative maybe to clip the last 2 bolts on Gondolier Arete to finish the route. Jul 25, 2008
Tim Kline
Littleton, co
Tim Kline   Littleton, co
Excellent route, I'm so glad it wasn't bolted, there is one bolt at the top you can use or just place a nut. Great dihedral. Great moves all the way through to the top. Aug 31, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
Route Canal to the last two bolts on Gondolier Arete is a three star line, IMO (Gondolier Canal?). 5.8 liebacks or crack climbing leads to an obvious, easy traverse into the crux section of the arete. Protects well with medium cams (#1.25 - 2.5 Friends). Sep 10, 2008
Steve Knapp
Highlands Ranch, CO
Steve Knapp   Highlands Ranch, CO
This can be done on toprope using the same anchor as Gondolier Arete after someone has led it. Super fun crack in a dihedral. Would be a very nice lead. Sep 13, 2008
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
Jam, layback, or stem... user's choice. A fun route that can be done many ways. Nothing too big for gear. Sep 17, 2008
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
This route is a good TR but not worth taking up a rack for. Sep 24, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Bolt at the top works as a good directional to TR from the arete route. Fun and somewhat similar to the 5.7 crack route on Lookout Mountain Crag. Hollow flake midway makes for a questionable first gear placement. Sep 24, 2008
Ben Burnett
Ben Burnett   Colorado
Good hand crack - for CCC - you only need a couple cams #0.75 to #2 Camalot would do. Jun 2, 2010
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
This is a fun route. It would be a 5.9 if there weren't so many face hold options on the line. I used a BD 1, BD 0.75, A finger-sized Metolius, another BD 0.75, and a quick draw for the bolt. It's a fun route and a good place to practice hand jams. The lower part of the crack is also a good place to teach someone how to build and anchor. Bring some BD 2s if you plan on doing that. Jul 18, 2011

Not sure where a 4" piece would go. Really nice route with a well placed bolt and fun, secure climbing. Aug 9, 2011
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
I had fun on this climb today, but I did it top-rope from the Gondolier Arete anchors, because I didn't see the point in bringing trad-gear to the Canal Zone. Definitely would be a good lead for someone working on leading 5.8-5.9. Sep 6, 2011
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Straightforward (huge relief compared to trying Vedauwoo 5.9!!!) with a little bit of UK 5a bridging at the top. Oct 16, 2013
Snow Lily
Snow Lily   Golden
We took a rack. Hard but fun and satisfying. The crux is near the top. Come on, bring your rack, it's not that far of a walk from the car. Go for it, sporty folks! Aug 9, 2014
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
Very fun and relaxed route! It went really easily on just a single set of nuts. I think I used 4 of them in total. Oct 10, 2016
Denver, CO
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
Those blocks have become very shifty. I remember a couple years ago this route had no loose rock to speak of. At this point, it's an accident waiting to happen. Jul 26, 2017
The block in the crack had broken into the 3 pieces, the top 100 lbs of which could be pulled out like a book on a shelf and was a deathtrap. We trundled it. I don't think it really changes the difficulty of the route. There is room for good gear behind where the block was. Aug 7, 2017
Jon Banks
Denver, CO
Jon Banks   Denver, CO
The remaining blocks in the crack are very loose as well and should be trundled if someone has the time. I wouldn't touch these blocks now and definitely wouldn't use the crack for pro there. Jun 3, 2018
Mark Dunn
Moab, UT
Mark Dunn   Moab, UT
Fun route, I'd call it a easier 5.8 if you use some jams in the middle. There is one loose block in the middle (like previous comments have mentioned), but it's relatively easy to avoid. I ended with the last two bolts on Gondolier Arete for a fun, sporty finish after the crack peters out. Easily led on gear, but can be top-oped. The largest piece I places was a #2. Jul 18, 2018