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Routes in The Canal Zone

Aretnophobia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lame Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Jerky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopper, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,340 total, 73/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb the clean dihedral crack, face climb past the bolt and pull through to the anchors.

Location

See the photo topo.

Protection

Gear to 4" and one bolt, finish at the anchors on Gondolier Arete.

Photos

The block in the crack had broken into the 3 pieces, the top 100 lbs of which could be pulled out like a book on a shelf and was a deathtrap. We trundled it. I don't think it really changes the difficulty of the route. There is room for good gear behind where the block was. Aug 7, 2017
ALuckyDuck
Denver, CO
  5.6
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
  5.6
Those blocks have become very shifty. I remember a couple years ago this route had no loose rock to speak of. At this point, it's an accident waiting to happen. Jul 26, 2017
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Very fun and relaxed route! It went really easily on just a single set of nuts. I think I used 4 of them in total. Oct 10, 2016
Snow Lily
Golden
 
Snow Lily   Golden
 
We took a rack. Hard but fun and satisfying. The crux is near the top. Come on, bring your rack, it's not that far of a walk from the car. Go for it, sporty folks! Aug 9, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Straightforward (huge relief compared to trying Vedauwoo 5.9!!!) with a little bit of UK 5a bridging at the top. Oct 16, 2013
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
 
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
 
I had fun on this climb today, but I did it top-rope from the Gondolier Arete anchors, because I didn't see the point in bringing trad-gear to the Canal Zone. Definitely would be a good lead for someone working on leading 5.8-5.9. Sep 6, 2011
slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
Not sure where a 4" piece would go. Really nice route with a well placed bolt and fun, secure climbing. Aug 9, 2011
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.8+
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.8+
This is a fun route. It would be a 5.9 if there weren't so many face hold options on the line. I used a BD 1, BD 0.75, A finger-sized Metolius, another BD 0.75, and a quick draw for the bolt. It's a fun route and a good place to practice hand jams. The lower part of the crack is also a good place to teach someone how to build and anchor. Bring some BD 2s if you plan on doing that. Jul 18, 2011
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9-
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9-
Good hand crack - for CCC - you only need a couple cams #0.75 to #2 Camalot would do. Jun 2, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8+
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8+
Bolt at the top works as a good directional to TR from the arete route. Fun and somewhat similar to the 5.7 crack route on Lookout Mountain Crag. Hollow flake midway makes for a questionable first gear placement. Sep 24, 2008
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.8+
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.8+
This route is a good TR but not worth taking up a rack for. Sep 24, 2008
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.8
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.8
Jam, layback, or stem... user's choice. A fun route that can be done many ways. Nothing too big for gear. Sep 17, 2008
Steve Knapp
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.9
Steve Knapp   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.9
This can be done on toprope using the same anchor as Gondolier Arete after someone has led it. Super fun crack in a dihedral. Would be a very nice lead. Sep 13, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
Route Canal to the last two bolts on Gondolier Arete is a three star line, IMO (Gondolier Canal?). 5.8 liebacks or crack climbing leads to an obvious, easy traverse into the crux section of the arete. Protects well with medium cams (#1.25 - 2.5 Friends). Sep 10, 2008
Tim Kline
Littleton, co
Tim Kline   Littleton, co
Excellent route, I'm so glad it wasn't bolted, there is one bolt at the top you can use or just place a nut. Great dihedral. Great moves all the way through to the top. Aug 31, 2008
Gear used 2 #1 Cams, 2 #0.75, and 1 or 2 #0.5 cams. I also used one quickdraw. A little mungy after the bolt. A better alternative maybe to clip the last 2 bolts on Gondolier Arete to finish the route. Jul 25, 2008