Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Todd and Kristin Felix
Page Views: 7,115 total · 73/month
Shared By: Todd Felix on May 31, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details


Start just left of the arete on jugs, step right, make a few moves on the face (shares a hold or two with Batso Canal, depending on how you climb Batso), and then follow the inviting arete until it ends below a short but imposing headwall. Clip the high bolt on the headwall before committing to this tricky crux section, then pull over the roof on increasingly better holds.


This is 20 feet right of Made in the Shade, and just left of Batso Canal, on the obvious arete with camouflaged bolts.


9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. An alpine draw on the last bolt before the headwall (6th bolt) will decrease rope drag.


Todd Felix
Todd Felix  
It will probably feel 5.10-ish when you know the moves, but they may be cryptic, so expect 5.11-ish on-sight. May 31, 2011
  5.11 PG13
  5.11 PG13
One of the better routes at Canal Zone. Very fun, flowing moves with well placed bolts. The crux is tricky (obviously) and rewards good body position. Great route! May 31, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Awesome route name! Jun 2, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
Tuck, well placed bolts yet PG-13??? that doesn't make sense to me, this route sounds a little steeper than most at Canal Zone. I will have to check it out.

And route name is awesome! Jun 2, 2011
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
The trick is to arrive at the crux not totally spent from the fairly physical arete climbing. That said, the crux is deliciously tricky and difficult. Tuck is right, body position is key. A new fav at The Zone.
The first clip may seem high, but it is easily reached from low jugs. Jun 24, 2011
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
Nice climb, if inconsistent. Start the early V2 boulder problem to the arete, sticking to the left as much as possible. Balancy moves give way to easier climbing and the roof above. Pull through the second V2 problem on good holds (if you can find them) past two well-placed bolts. Watch for the z-clip through the second crux. There is no way this climb is PG-13. All of the clips are well placed. Jun 24, 2011
Jonathan Dykhuis
Jonathan Dykhuis  
Fun climb with good protection. I noticed a block just over the roof that rocks when touched. It looks like it won't come down any time soon, but I would recommend the belayer wear a helmet to be safe.

Also, I don't see how this is 5.11 when comparing to Batso Canal. Jul 14, 2011
clarkbeau   boulder
Really enjoy this one, great movement and variety. Much more fun than 2-move-wonder Batso. Dec 14, 2014
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
Fun climbing up the arete (my favorite part) to the well-protected roof. Clip a double length runner before the steeps. Find your path through the roof, and enjoy the send. Significantly easier than its 5.11 neighbor. Apr 24, 2015
Gabe Watson
Golden, Colorado
Gabe Watson   Golden, Colorado
The first bolt on this route as of 7/2/2015 feels extremely loose. Take care, folks. Jul 2, 2015
Yeah, the first bolt on this route is definitely sketch. Still super loose as of 9/17/2015. I clipped the first two bolts on Basto and then moved left to the second bolt of Aretnophobia. Sep 18, 2015
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
First bolt replaced with a 1/2" Powers in the same hole. The 2nd bolt was loose, I was able to reset it. Sep 27, 2015
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
What a fantastic route! Wish there was more of it. I highly recommend starting the route directly on the arete instead of to the left. This adds 3 or so bouldery moves. If you want beta on the roof, read the next sentence. In the overhang, stay to the left and make moves to get your left hand on the point of the large triangle-shaped feature. From there, make a long reach with your right to the lip of the overhang. From that position, you can pretty easily crank through it. Good luck! May 25, 2016
Wes Farrar
If you stay slightly left of the bolt line through the overhang, make sure your rope doesn't get snagged under the bulge. The bulge acts as a z-clip and makes for a violent swing! May 4, 2017