Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (10)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,932 total · 44/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Mar 17, 2007
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

You & This Route


113 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

This is a crimper's delight. It is also good for the reach impaired as there are a lot of tiny intermediates. This is the route just left of Punishment for Shoplifting which is much discussed in the comments for that route.

This is continuous, vertical 11- in the bottom half, then cruxy off-vertical climbing on solid rock with variously oriented, small holds from bolts 6 to 8. There are a couple of decent rests before the business. Bonus: the crux clips are pretty easy.

Location [Edit]

This is between Schwing Salute and PFS.

Protection [Edit]

8 bolts.

Photos

Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.12b
F'in fantastic! The crux is all in the foot work. This would be an impressive onsight. Mar 27, 2008
desbien
seattle,wa
  5.12b
desbien   seattle,wa
  5.12b
Really great route. Now that I finally sent it I don't have to guard my opinion in order to keep attention off it. Apr 2, 2008
slim

  5.12a/b
slim    
  5.12a/b
Called 'Convicted Felon' in the new guidebook, I think. Really good route with varied climbing that builds up to a nice crux. Aug 17, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a/b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a/b
Awesome. Simply one of the best in the canyon at the grade. Apr 13, 2010
Geoff Elson
  5.12a/b
Geoff Elson  
  5.12a/b
The rebolting seems to be a bit excessive. Safer than the gym. May 22, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a/b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a/b
Huh? Did this get retrobolted, Geoff? May 23, 2010
Geoff Elson
  5.12a/b
Geoff Elson  
  5.12a/b
It looks like at some point it was updated, there are permanent heavy duty biners on the lowering chains. I don't know anything about the history of the route this could have been the original bolt spacing but the lower section is over protected. Twice I was able to unclip the draw below and move it up to the next bolt. May 27, 2010
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12b
Nothing wrong with an overprotected parent for a climb when it comes to bolts. I was delighted to find out how crimpy and cruxy the upper section of this route is. Great line for people who love face climbing! Jul 25, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Fantastic route and one of the best routes I have done in Clear Creek. Who knew that Monkey House was so close to Wall of the '90s but sees very little traffic. A pumpy and gentle travere left on slopers takes you to a good rest and then 10 feet of techy/thin face climbing. This stone is perfect! Awesome! Do it.... Nov 10, 2012
Elijah Flenner
  5.12a
Elijah Flenner  
  5.12a
Bottom is harder than it looks, and the route is more sustained than it at first appears. The crux is a little tricky, but very good stances before and after that makes for a great 5.12 project. Jun 8, 2013
I got on this for the first time today while my buddy pursued and achieved the redpoint. This is a great line with varied climbing, good rests, and a delicate crux on vertical rock. I got it with two rests the first go and 1 rest on my second go. I'll come back for the redpoint soon! FYI, this route is in the shade and wind until about 1pm. Nov 16, 2013
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
First off, what a great line! Fun climbing! BUT I wanted to just give a bit of a shout out to climbers who come here looking for a straight up, crimp climb. I'm not sure where, Crimper's Delight came from, but when a route is 6 bolts out of 7 bolts of slopers and then 1 bolt of crimps (and 1 bolt of jugs), I wouldn't necessarily call it a "Crimper's Delight!" Great crux on crimps, though ;) Sep 28, 2015
Nolan Robertson
  5.12b
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12b
I love this route! The layout is awesome! I feel like the moves get consistently a little harder until you finally explode to the finish. Apr 7, 2017

More About The Reward aka Convicted Felon

Printer-Friendly
Fixed Hardware Report (10)