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Routes in The Fiscal Cliff

24 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Colliding S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Berlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glitter and Doom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Curtain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Joppa Road S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Joyride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Marge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lot Lizards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nomesayin (??) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Over the Top S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Runaway Truck Ram S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Systemic Risk S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 6,900 ft
GPS: 39.746, -105.405 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,021 total, 128/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Oct 26, 2012 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This area is on the south side of Clear Creek river just west of the CO 119/US 6 between the junction and Tunnel 5. I put two short, pumpy routes (six clips) in a few years ago, and there is potential for several more.

A. 12, 1p, bolts.
B. 12, 1p, bolts.
C. ?
D. Systemic Risk, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E1? Glitter and Doom, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
E2. Colliding, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
F. Over the Top, 12-, 1p, 35', bolts.
G. Nomesayin (??), 10, 1pl, 45', bolts.
H. Runaway Truck Ram, 12-, 1p, 35', bolts.
I. Large Marge, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
J. Joppa Road, 12-, 1p, 30', bolts.
K. Lot Lizards, 11, 1p, 35', bolts.
L. Joyride, 8, 1p, 45', bolts.
M. East Berlin, 7, 1p, 70', bolts.
N. The Iron Curtain, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. 24, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Park at the Peaks to Plains lot just west of Tunnel 5. Follow the paved trail down river for 10 minutes until you see the crag on your right.

Fauna

There are ticks in this area.

Caution

A MP.com user suggests that climbing behind the steel curtain on routes Iron Curtain and 24 could be a nightmare for access concerns. The whole crag could easily get shut down to begin with, since it's right on the new bike path, and people climbing those two routes is just an invitation to give them a great excuse to close access to the crag!

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Fiscal Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joyride
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
24
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lot Lizards
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Large Marge
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Over the Top
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Joyride 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
24 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Lot Lizards 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Large Marge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Over the Top 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Mark Me  
It appears that Systematic Risk is no longer the third from the left route at this crag. Between the first two 12s (Mirror/Just in Time) out to the left and SR there is another route. Does anyone know what it is?
Thanks! Aug 29, 2017
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
Cara Hubbell   Arvada, CO
Fiscal Cliff is still dirty and gets really wet after it rains, but the approach is easy, and the crag stays shaded for most of the day. Definitely worth checking out to get on some fun, overhung, shorter routes with LOTS of bolts. Jul 30, 2017
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
This crag is still pretty dirty... not a destination crag but ok if you're bored with most of the other stuff. Nov 11, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The best, legal, approach to this crag is not what is described here. There is an area closed sign at the start of the approach if you park where it is suggested here. You can walk down the new path from the Catslab parking area if you wish to take the legal approach. This takes 10-15 minutes, and it could be faster if you ride a bike or skateboard. You can park in the new lot for the trail alongside the road. Oct 17, 2016
Josh
Golden, CO
Josh   Golden, CO
A friendly suggestion for anyone visiting the Fiscal Cliff: please keep belayers and gear and whatnot off the new paved trail to avoid unnecessary conflict with bikers and hikers. Now that the Peak-to-Plains Trail is open in this section of the canyon, access to this cliff and a few others is much, much easier. However, the trail also sits essentially at the base of this crag, and it is on an outside corner. For cyclists, this means they may not be able to see a belayer who is standing on the paved trail until they are too close. Aug 29, 2016
two chains
Fucken Zion
two chains   Fucken Zion
Linda, if you buy the bolts and hangers, I'll put up a route with you.... Or you can go out and bolt a line yourself.... Bolt fairies don't like bolting easy routes. Or go 100 yard up canyon to The Other Critters if you want 5.4s.

Besides that... one of the best crags in the canyon.... You will be like.... Damn, look at that hold!!! Bring a bike or skate board to make the approch easier. Aug 21, 2016
Are these the first climbs on the right that you come to when walking downstream on the Peaks to Plains trail after parking at the new parking lot after Tunnel 5?

If so, now that the Peaks to Plains trail is open, I imagine these climbs will get all kinds of attention, as the belayer is essentially standing on the trail! There is a bit of grass to get slightly off the trail.

The rightmost two climbs in this area have probably been ruined by a huge cable that has been anchored there to support a net that prevents rockfall onto the trail. They may still be climbable, but the situation doesn't look good. Aug 18, 2016
Hi. If you bolt more of the rock, could you please put in some 5.6-5.8. I am short, older, and climb with a brace. I can lead easier climbs. I can climb up to a 5.10 if my husband leads but like the leading. Thanks Oct 17, 2014
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
This is a really neat area - definitely a lot of potential remaining, even for a few long pitches. Still cleaning up though - pulled off a considerable amount of rock when was here. Also, ticks in the area. A plus though is we stayed dry when it was raining. May 13, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I have wondered whose routes those were! This is practically below the Mourning Glory crag near the creek and just past where you would start trudging up the hill to Mourning Glory.

There is potential for quite a bit of new stuff all over this area....

Oct 26, 2012

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