Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 494 total · 24/month
Shared By: Mark E Dixon on May 18, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This climbs better than it looks.

Begin with a committing step up over the first little roof, with the initial bolt just at your foot. Make a few feints to the left or right to clip, before climbing upwards in the opposite direction. Enjoy a balancy mantel before a powerful move to the anchors.

Location

About halfway between the left and right sides of Fiscal Cliff is a left-facing corner with an obvious, pale, tan face seemingly crisscrossed with small ledges. The right wall of this corner is darker and more featured.

Protection

4 bolts to Mussy hooks.

Photos

Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
  5.10
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
  5.10
There's a hummingbird nest on the tree near the final bolt. Be careful not to scare the babies! May 18, 2017
Ryan Marsters  
5.10c
I think Rakkup calls this 9+. I don't know about that. The last couple moves are a bit delicate with a weird reach for me, but I'm on the shorter side of things. May 30, 2017
Bobby Hebel
New London, WI / Plattevill…
 
Bobby Hebel   New London, WI / Plattevill…
 
One of the weirdest routes I've climbed. Don't let the wall push you off. Aug 6, 2018
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
  5.10
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
  5.10
The gates on the old style Mussy hooks aren’t meant to ‘hold’ your rope in place. Gravity does that when you drop your rope in from BELOW.
Don’t climb above Mussys or open hooks.
If I get a chance, I’ll switch the anchors to Climbtech Mussys, but it may be next summer.
Don’t climb above these either.
Feel free to do it sooner. Sep 25, 2018