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Routes in A Little Piece of South Dakota

Ethical Jesture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Little Piece T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midwestern Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dakota T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 39.738, -105.357 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,756 total, 25/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This large-ish wall is just downstream from High Profile Wall and also faces West and North. The climbing is largely unremarkable, and this probably explains the rarity with which it is climbed (in 20 years of climbing in the area, I have never seen anyone on it!). However, it is home to a few moderate trad lines that tick in at 5.9 or so. These follow obvious grooves and crack systems. One face climb has been established at 5.9 as well, and it carries the LPSD moniker. I checked out LPSD in 2000 thinking it might be a good spot to develop more moderate face climbs, but the effort involved seemed too great. The rock here is granitic and fairly rough. We did a two pitch 5.8 called Reds that kicked up quite enjoyable climbing, although the bulk of the climbing seemed more like 5.6. If you are looking for an off beat day on nearly virgin stone, LPSD might be worth a visit.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Park as for the High Profile Wall but hike back down stream to the much larger wall. LPSD is best approached a bit uphill and from the right side.

L->R:

A. North Dakota, 7, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
B. Little Piece, 8, 1p, 115', gear.
C. A Little Piece of South Dakota, 9 R, 1p, 115', bolts & gear.
D. Ethical Jesture, 9 R, 1p, 120', gear.
E. Bugsy, 9, 1p, gear.
F. Reds, 8, 1-2p, 125', gear.
G. Midwestern Crack, 6, 1-2p, 110', gear.

5 Total Climbs

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Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I would just go in the late fall or on a warm winter day. I waded the creek right below the crag, Jul 28, 2015
David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
Good to know, Jay, I was curious why I haven't seen many. Do you have any recommendations about the best time to find a way across the creek or better yet if there's good enough options to get across in less than ideal conditions? This rock looks really cool. Jul 28, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult. Feb 16, 2015

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