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A Little Piece of South Dakota Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in A Little Piece of South Dakota

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bar None S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Better Than Most Around These Parts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Creek Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Doesn't Suck as Much TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ethical Jesture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Little Piece T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Midwestern Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	North Dakota T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Reds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	This Route Sucks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,000 ft	2,134 m
GPS:	39.73796, -105.35707 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,482 total · 60/month
Shared By:	Richard M. Wright on Apr 23, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Description

This large-ish wall is just downstream from High Profile Wall and also faces West and North. The climbing is largely unremarkable, and this probably explains the rarity with which it is climbed (in 20 years of climbing in the area, I have never seen anyone on it!). However, it is home to a few moderate trad lines that tick in at 5.9 or so. These follow obvious grooves and crack systems. One face climb has been established at 5.9 as well, and it carries the LPSD moniker. I checked out LPSD in 2000 thinking it might be a good spot to develop more moderate face climbs, but the effort involved seemed too great. The rock here is granitic and fairly rough. We did a two pitch 5.8 called Reds that kicked up quite enjoyable climbing, although the bulk of the climbing seemed more like 5.6. If you are looking for an off beat day on nearly virgin stone, LPSD might be worth a visit.

Getting There

Park as for the High Profile Wall but hike back down stream to the much larger wall. LPSD is best approached a bit uphill and from the right side.

L->R:

A. Creek Crack, 5, 1p, 50', gear.
B. North Dakota, 7, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
C. Little Piece, 8, 1p, 115', gear.
D. A Little Piece of South Dakota, 9 R, 1p, 115', bolts & gear.
E. Ethical Jesture, 9 R, 1p, 120', gear.
F. Bugsy, 9, 1p, gear.
G. Reds, 8, 1-2p, 125', gear.
H. Midwestern Crack, 6, 1-2p, 110', gear.
I. Better Than Most Around These Parts, 8, 1p, 100', bolts.

J. Bar None, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.

KL. Doesn't Suck as Much, 6, 1p, 50', TR.
L. This Route Sucks, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.