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Routes in A Little Piece of South Dakota

Ethical Jesture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Little Piece T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midwestern Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dakota T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Peter Hubbel?
Page Views: 258 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 11, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb is not the worst, but I gave it a bomb rating, because the rock has a lot of lichen on it and the rock quality is not very good in many spots. You climb up a broken crack system. I think there are two crux areas. The first is about 30' up where the rock steepens above the initial slab. Pro can be found in the crack to the left, and higher you lieback up to a ledge. You could belay in this ledge if you wish to do two pitches. The second crux is above a bush in a slot which forms an overhanging roof. There is protection here. You finish up a left-leaning crack which has a tree near its top.

Location

This route is to the right of Ethical Gesture by about 25 feet. At the start is a slab that slants up to the left.

Walk off to the left (east) after you finish the climb.

Protection

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot. You can use the bolt anchor on Ethical Gesture at the top.

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
I thought that Peter Hubbel or someone from that era may have done this route. It's in one of the older guides. Jul 29, 2015