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Routes in A Little Piece of South Dakota

Bar None S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Better Than Most Around These Parts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Doesn't Suck as Much TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ethical Jesture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Little Piece T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midwestern Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dakota T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Route Sucks S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Luke Childers, 2015
Page Views: 142 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 2, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is the furthest right climb at the crag and is separate from the main crag. It follows an arĂȘte next to a super licheny face. It seems hard for a 5.6 near the first bolt. The easiest start seems to the right of the first bolt. Higher, you stay to the right of the bolts and arĂȘte before moving left onto the face at the fourth bolt. Kevin Capps thinks it is not bad, as seen in his guide, but I think it kind of "sucks". The anchors at the time of this writing are just bolts with no lowering hardware. Someone should bring quicklinks or leaver biners in the future. My second downlead the route because of this.

Location

This is the furthest right (west) route in the area. You walk up a steep hill to get to the base which is not level at the start. Rap or lower (this needs hardware).

Protection

5 bolts and a two bolt anchor which needs lowering hardware.

Photos

Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9-
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9-
The lichen sucks; the route doesn't. Climbing belly-to-the-bolts, it might be 5.8 after it cleans up, but it's a bit harder in its present dirty condition. I'll take a wire brush next time. I left two quick links (all I had with me) on the hangers as a temporary solution to allow the route to be rapped. They're only finger tight, so a wrench and chains or two more links are needed for better lowering without twisting the rope. Apr 30, 2018

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