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GPS: 39.74099, -105.34126
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

AKA: Pete's Wicked Cave. The Sex Cave is another super rock for those out there climbing in the upper 5.12 to 5.13 range. There are three routes that grace this ceiling crag, the easiest goes at 5.12d, and the hardest at 5.13b/c. All the routes here are excellent, and require some tricky moves to pull through the cruxes. Most of the draws are fixed, so all one needs is a rope, maybe two draws just in case, and lots of finger power. This crag is a good crag for spring, summer and fall, but winter finds it in the shade and quite cold on all but the warmest days. It does provide some shade for summer and would make a good hot weather crag.

Getting There Suggest change

The crag is located about 1/2 mile past tunnel three, and is on the north side of the road, slightly out of site from the car. Look for a large pullout on the south side, just past the crag, that has a very large black boulder in it. Park here and walk maybe 50 feet back toward tunnel three to locate a bad trail that leads uphill to the north. Look for a cave with lots of draws hanging from it. Approach time is less than 5 minutes.

L->R:

Suggest change
A. Head Like A Hole, 12+, 1p, bolts.
AB. Head Cold, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
BA. Stone Cold Head, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Stone Cold Modern, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
CA. Rubble Head, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
C. Rubble, 13, 1p, bolts.

Across the river:

The Freezer aka Fridge aka Dr. Duck, V6 PG-13.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sex Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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