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Routes in Sex Cave

Freezer aka The Fridge, The V6 7A PG13
Head Cold S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Head Like a Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rubble S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stone Cold Head S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stone Cold Modern S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Description

AKA: Pete's Wicked Cave. The Sex Cave is another super rock for those out there climbing in the upper 5.12 to 5.13 range. There are three routes that grace this ceiling crag, the easiest goes at 5.12d, and the hardest at 5.13b/c. All the routes here are excellent, and require some tricky moves to pull through the cruxes. Most of the draws are fixed, so all one needs is a rope, maybe two draws just in case, and lots of finger power. This crag is a good crag for spring, summer and fall, but winter finds it in the shade and quite cold on all but the warmest days. It does provide some shade for summer and would make a good hot weather crag.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

The crag is located about 1/2 mile past tunnel three, and is on the north side of the road, slightly out of site from the car. Look for a large pullout on the south side, just past the crag, that has a very large black boulder in it. Park here and walk maybe 50 feet back toward tunnel three to locate a bad trail that leads uphill to the north. Look for a cave with lots of draws hanging from it. Approach time is less than 5 minutes.

L->R:

A. Head Like A Hole, 12+, 1p, bolts.
AB. Head Cold, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
BA. Stone Cold Head, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Stone Cold Modern, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
C. Rubble, 13, 1p, bolts.

Across the river:

The Freezer aka The Fridge, V6 PG-13.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sex Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Sex Cave »

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This area totally blows, even by CCC standards. It is a shit filled (literally) hole in the ground that has 1 star, or no star manufactured routes. Be advised. Jul 6, 2013
What Peter said. Only two holds as I can recall are chipped on Stone Cold Modern: a couple of pockets at the beginning. Or maybe just one pocket? Sorry; it's been 19 years since I last did the routes here. Sep 14, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
@J Albers, the only actually chipped route is Stone Cold Modern. Rubble is not, nor is Head Like a Hole. Sep 14, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
So, are the routes here all chipped/drilled? When I look at the route descriptions, there is no mention of chipping/drilling. Just curious because I am considerably less interested in climbing manufactured rock. Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Thanks, Peter and Pinkle. Sep 12, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I knew what you were talking about Matt, just checkin'. Was the sport route you were lookin at Mildage? this area of rock is a little sketch getting to from the left of the Primo warmups (above Nomad Cave). Have fun with your new route exploring and let us know how they turn out! Post pics! May 5, 2009
Matt Bolt
Lakewood
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
So, my gumby nature is showing. By Sex Cave, what I meant was "NOMAD'S CAVE". Goes to show how often I tie in at crags with 12c/d warmups. However, if you look directly above the Nomad's Cave from the road, there are two distinct dihedrals. I'll try to post some photos on the Nomad page as soon as I get back up there. May 5, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Near Pete's Wicked Sex cave is Rebel Wall.
Sex Cave and Primo are very far apart. May 4, 2009
Matt Bolt
Lakewood
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
There are a few established routes on the rock above the Sex Cave (one sport route that I found for sure). However, there are two sick splitter cracks in two separate right-facing dihedrals in the same area. I went up there to check them out today and one of them could possible be the best moderate crack in Clear Creek (off to thin hands). My question is, does anyone know if they have been climbed? The one I looked at closly was pretty dirty and definitely hasn't seen an ascent in the recent past. I plan on getting up there in the next week or so and sending them on gear, I was just wondering if it had been done before. May 3, 2009
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
This is the worst bolted cliff in the canyon. Don't waste your time. Apr 28, 2009
Jeremy, I believe the previous AC was being sarcastic and was appalled as you are at chipped routes. Oct 10, 2002
I thought the three routes mentioned were too hard for me, so I drilled a couple of holes for my fingers to pull the moves. Wow! Now that I can climb that hard stuff I feel pretty cool. The routes felt that the grades that were posted didnt change even with my new holds. I think i am going to bring my chizel and make a couple side pulls too. It looks like we can squeeze in some more lines in this cool looking cave.BAD ASS Jul 9, 2002
Yeah check out the drilled pockets. Those things are hella sweet bro! Go get em'!!! Mar 25, 2002

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