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Sex Cave Rock Climbing
Routes in Sex Cave
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Freezer aka Fridge aka Dr. Duck, The V7+ 7A+ PG13 |
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Head Cold S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Head Like a Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rubble S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rubble Head S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Stone Cold Head S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Stone Cold Modern S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| GPS: |
39.74099, -105.34126 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 23,316 total · 85/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
AKA: Pete's Wicked Cave. The Sex Cave is another super rock for those out there climbing in the upper 5.12 to 5.13 range. There are three routes that grace this ceiling crag, the easiest goes at 5.12d, and the hardest at 5.13b/c. All the routes here are excellent, and require some tricky moves to pull through the cruxes. Most of the draws are fixed, so all one needs is a rope, maybe two draws just in case, and lots of finger power. This crag is a good crag for spring, summer and fall, but winter finds it in the shade and quite cold on all but the warmest days. It does provide some shade for summer and would make a good hot weather crag.
Getting There
The crag is located about 1/2 mile past tunnel three, and is on the north side of the road, slightly out of site from the car. Look for a large pullout on the south side, just past the crag, that has a very large black boulder in it. Park here and walk maybe 50 feet back toward tunnel three to locate a bad trail that leads uphill to the north. Look for a cave with lots of draws hanging from it. Approach time is less than 5 minutes.
L->R:
A. Head Like A Hole, 12+, 1p, bolts.
AB. Head Cold, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
BA. Stone Cold Head, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Stone Cold Modern, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
CA. Rubble Head, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
C. Rubble, 13, 1p, bolts.
Across the river:
The Freezer aka Fridge aka Dr. Duck, V6 PG-13.
AB. Head Cold, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
BA. Stone Cold Head, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Stone Cold Modern, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
CA. Rubble Head, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
C. Rubble, 13, 1p, bolts.
Across the river:
The Freezer aka Fridge aka Dr. Duck, V6 PG-13.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sex Cave
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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