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GPS: 39.74099, -105.34126
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Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

AKA: Pete's Wicked Cave. The Sex Cave is another super rock for those out there climbing in the upper 5.12 to 5.13 range. There are three routes that grace this ceiling crag, the easiest goes at 5.12d, and the hardest at 5.13b/c. All the routes here are excellent, and require some tricky moves to pull through the cruxes. Most of the draws are fixed, so all one needs is a rope, maybe two draws just in case, and lots of finger power. This crag is a good crag for spring, summer and fall, but winter finds it in the shade and quite cold on all but the warmest days. It does provide some shade for summer and would make a good hot weather crag.

Getting There Suggest change

The crag is located about 1/2 mile past tunnel three, and is on the north side of the road, slightly out of site from the car. Look for a large pullout on the south side, just past the crag, that has a very large black boulder in it. Park here and walk maybe 50 feet back toward tunnel three to locate a bad trail that leads uphill to the north. Look for a cave with lots of draws hanging from it. Approach time is less than 5 minutes.

L->R:

Suggest change

A1. Climbing Industrial Complex, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts.

A2. Head Like A Hole, 12+, 1p, bolts.

AB. Head Cold, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.

BA1. Stone Cold Complex, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.

BA2. Stone Cold Head, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.

B. Stone Cold Modern, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.

CA. Rubble Head, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.

C. Rubble, 13, 1p, bolts.

D. Dirty Dancing, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Across the river:

The Freezer aka Fridge aka Dr. Duck, V6 PG-13.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sex Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V8 7B PG13
 11
● The Freezer aka Fridge aka Dr. Duck
Boulder
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 4
● Climbing Industrial Complex
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 37
● Head Like a Hole
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
● Rubble
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
● Stone Cold Head
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
● Head Cold
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
● Rubble Head
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 17
● Stone Cold Modern
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Freezer aka Fridge aka…
 11
V8 7B PG13 Boulder
● Climbing Industrial Complex
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
● Head Like a Hole
 37
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Rubble
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Stone Cold Head
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Head Cold
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Rubble Head
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Stone Cold Modern
 17
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sex Cave »

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