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Early Access
Routes in Sex Cave
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Climbing Industrial Complex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dirty Dancing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Freezer aka Fridge aka Dr. Duck, The V8 7B PG13 |
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Head Cold S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Head Like a Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rubble S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rubble Complex S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rubble Head S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Stone Cold Complex S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Stone Cold Head S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Stone Cold Modern S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 39.74099, -105.34126 |
| FA: | Pete Zoller, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 5,595 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Weitzel on Apr 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This is the easiest route at the Sex Cave. It goes at 12d if you use the "scary block" beta for the moves between bolts 2 and 3, keeping this section at 5.11. Or you can bypass this hold which requires a 5.12 move that adds to the overall difficulty of the route (5.13a). The "scary block" is not all that scary and couldn't come out unless you go up there with a crowbar, but since there is a reference to it in the guide I thought it should be mentioned.
Head Like a Hole is quite a sustained route, with a very tricky clipping crux near the end of the cave section, followed by a slightly runout 12a/b finish on the face. Falling here will only result in a great swing due to the overhang, but the runout does make you think a little bit. Overall a worthy route that will keep you on your toes.
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