Type: Sport
FA: Pete Zoller, 1991
Page Views: 5,309 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is the easiest route at the Sex Cave. It goes at 12d if you use the "scary block" beta for the moves between bolts 2 and 3, keeping this section at 5.11. Or you can bypass this hold which requires a 5.12 move that adds to the overall difficulty of the route (5.13a). The "scary block" is not all that scary and couldn't come out unless you go up there with a crowbar, but since there is a reference to it in the guide I thought it should be mentioned.

Head Like a Hole is quite a sustained route, with a very tricky clipping crux near the end of the cave section, followed by a slightly runout 12a/b finish on the face. Falling here will only result in a great swing due to the overhang, but the runout does make you think a little bit. Overall a worthy route that will keep you on your toes.

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts / 2 bolts (biners) anchor.