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Lower Capitalist Crag Rock Climbing
Routes in Lower Capitalist Crag
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Aries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cheap Labor T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Downsizing S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Five Finger Discount S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flexin' Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Tides S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lunchmoney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mounty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stroh's S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Strohs Lite S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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This Lonely View S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Venture Capital S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vitamin-N S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Elevation: | 6,500 ft | 1,981 m |
| GPS: |
39.73948, -105.32756 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 48,174 total · 191/month | |
| Shared By: | Darren Mabe on Aug 11, 2004 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Lower Capitalist Crag has a selection of moderate sport climbs, a couple of "trad" routes, and a few harder testpieces for the Clear Creek Canyon climber wanting a change of scenery and avoidance of traffic noise. The crag faces east, has a quick and flat approach, and also provides warm ups for the routes up the hill on Capitalist -- yielding about a dozen routes total for a nice afternoon workout.
Most of the routes start off of exposed ledge systems, therefore it is wise to be conscious of belay anchors (fixed slung chockstones, belay bolts, or trad anchors). All routes can be done safely with one 60 meter rope. Be careful of loose rock on the ledges if above other climbers.
A few recommended routes: Lunchmoney (9+), Cheap Labor (10a), and Stroh's (11+).
Most of the routes start off of exposed ledge systems, therefore it is wise to be conscious of belay anchors (fixed slung chockstones, belay bolts, or trad anchors). All routes can be done safely with one 60 meter rope. Be careful of loose rock on the ledges if above other climbers.
A few recommended routes: Lunchmoney (9+), Cheap Labor (10a), and Stroh's (11+).
Getting There
Park on the west side of tunnel 2 in the MissionWall/Wall90s parking. Walk west to tunnel 3 and follow a trail upstream. At the base of the hill going up to Capitalist (where shotgun shells, glass, and beer cans usually reside), go downhill (usually marked by cairn)along a faint traversing trail to the ledges of the lower crag. Lunchmoney is the first climb you come to as you hop onto the ledge. The Contra ledge is the ramp above the top anchors of Mounty and Vitamin-N.
To approach Stroh's ledge, instead of going down hill to the main lower crag, follow a ramp (marked by "MAC JO" graffiti) up and left to find a big boulder at the base of the Stroh's route.
To approach Stroh's ledge, instead of going down hill to the main lower crag, follow a ramp (marked by "MAC JO" graffiti) up and left to find a big boulder at the base of the Stroh's route.
L->R:
Lower Left Side
A. This Lonely View, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Vitamin N, 9-, 1p, 100', bolts.
C. Mounty, 8-, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Aries, 11, 1p, 100', bolts & pin.
E. Change/Cheap Labor, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
F. Five Finger Discount, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
G. Lunchmoney, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
H. Downsizing, 10-, 1p, 100' bolts.
Upper Left Side
I. Contra, 11, 1p, bolts.
Upper Right Side
J. Stroh's, 11-, 1p, bolts.
K. Stroh's Lite, 11+, 1p, TR or ?bolts & pin, no hangers?
Down low near Clear Creek (not in the L->R)
AA1. High Tides, 10+, 1p, 35', bolts.
AA2. Flexin' Flake, 10-, 1p, 30', gear.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Capitalist Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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