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Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

Rebel Wall is the all-too-infrequently climbed complex of walls directly above Pete's Wicked Cave. The Wall faces South, is high enough on the hill side to get good sun most of the day, and has plenty of routes to keep the party going for most of the day. While there are some bolts here and there, the crag has been largely developed as a trad spot and consequently most lines chase obvious crack systems. Most of the lines currently developed are left of the wide overhang on the right side of the crag. Most guidebooks to Clear Creek Canyon are outdated and this is especially true for the Rebel Wall. Nonetheless, for convenience sake, numbering here follows the old Hubbel guide (1995) that lists 21 routes from left to right. Noto Bene: This crag sits directly above the road where the rock fall potential is dramatic, so take the usual precautions or more so.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Park in the pull-out at the large black boulder 7.2 miles up the canyon. Rebel Wall can be approached from either the West or East via rough trails. The crag lies right above mile marker 264.

Eds. the 4th class can be avoided by staying further left (west) on the approach.

L->R:

A. Amy Is No Help, 4, 1p, gear.
B. Learner's Permit, 5, 1p, gear.
C. Unknown, 1p, bolts.
D. Dirty Girl, 8, 1p, 60', bolts, pin, gear.
E. Large Crack, 9, 1p, 120', gear.
F. Large Crack (Mabe's version), 9, 1p, 100', gear.
G. Mama Says Knock You Out, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
above G? The Curse of Eve, 12+?, gear.
H. Epidot, 11, 1p.
I. Southpaw, 10-, 1p, 95', bolts.
J. Body English, 9, 1p, 90', gear
above J. Upper Cut, 10, 1p, 50', gear.
K. Make It So, 10+ PG-13, 1p, 75', gear & bolts.
above I. Make It Go, 9, 1p.
L. Jump Start, 11 R.
M1. Only The Strong, 11.
M2. Dreidel, 10, bolts & gear.
N1. Piedmont Boulder Toad, 10, bolts & gear.
N2. Siouxnami, 12, bolts & gear.
above N. Winter Kill, 12+.
O. Last Chance to Dance, 11+, bolts & gear.
P. Busta Move, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Down To The Wire, 11, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
R. Floppy Boot Stomp, 8-, 2p, 195', gear.
S. Whistling Dixie, 6, gear. Below main crag.

12 Total Climbs

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Be advised: CAR BREAK-INS CAN OCCUR IN THIS AREA. During the early evening of Monday, May 11, 2015, the driver side window of my vehicle was broken by thieves. Thankfully there were two unknown climbers nearby who managed to scare off the thieves before they could take anything. To the unknown climbers: I am in your debt. To the thieves: rot in hell. May 12, 2015
Rob Meringolo
Denver, CO
Rob Meringolo   Denver, CO
Do not approach via the wash directly across the road from the black boulder listed in the description. Walk upstream and find a cairn that sits atop the hillside, carefully walk up loose dirt and rock, follow cairns to the base of the crag. The "wash approach" is nasty and a chute to send loose rock to the road. Climb Body English!!! Jul 26, 2014
goingUp
over here
goingUp   over here
It might be a better idea to park at the Nightworm Pinnacle to hit the trail to Rebel Wall more directly. There is no great way to enter the trail off the road, but there is a cairn near a small shrub that leads through the switchbacks up. The trail is a bit faint and ends up being class 4-ish at the top, which can be interesting with a climbing pack but is straightforward enough.... Apr 9, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
Trail is still faint, cairns are intact though, follow them. Somewhat adventurous approach, just wear decent shoes and be careful. It's an interesting crag, I guess people don't like visiting random places as much as I do.... Aug 25, 2012
Brian Russell
Highlands Ranch, CO
Brian Russell   Highlands Ranch, CO
Great climbing spot, but the approach is pretty sketchy. You're pretty much on your own to find a faint trail to the crag. Jul 15, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
FWIW, there are even ticks up here.

Also, the approach is suboptimal. Expect 3rd class. If you go above that, you are on harder than necessary terrain.

Finally, the crag is largely in the shade until late morning. May 6, 2010
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
For the approach, ignore the first cairn when walking upriver from the Rebel boulder; walk another 100 feet up the road to a second cairn. Follow cairned trail to wall, but go L and up to next higher ledge, which is where the climbs start. Apr 26, 2010
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
This is actually a nifty little crag, and it actually does sit right above Pete's Wicked Cave. The approach is from the next pulloff after the one with the black boulder (as for Pete's). These lines look like they would become a little more comfortable with some traffic. May 18, 2008
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
Found some sunglasses here today and I would like to return them to the owner. Let me know if they are yours. Apr 20, 2008
Info above is good, except it's not above Pete's Wicked.... May 18, 2003

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