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All Locations > Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Rebel Wall

Dirty Girl

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 1.9 from 8 votes

Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,546 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jay Samuelson on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This has some fun and interesting 5.8 face climbing. It is a good warm-up for the crag.

Location

On the far left side of Rebel Wall, there's an obvious 5.5 chimney to the left. It's the only bolt line on the left side of the crag.

Protection

There are four bolts and a fixed pin at the top of the 5.8 section, then gear for the last 20 or so odd feet to a pair of open shuts.

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Photos

Jay.
Jay.
 0
The open cold shuts at the anchor.
The open cold shuts at the anchor.
 0
The start of the climb. You can see the first bolt.
The start of the climb. You can see the first…
 0
The pin, you can back it up with a cam in the horizontal crack.
The pin, you can back it up with a cam in the h…
 0
Leo ascends Dirty Girl.
Leo ascends Dirty Girl.
 0

4 Comments

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Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.8
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.8
If anyone knows the correct name of this route, and possible FA info, please let me know and I'll correct it on here. Jan 2, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9-
I listed as "Unknown" in the book. More like 5.9, but maybe splitting hairs. Someone climbing at the grade may want a small nut getting to the first bolt. A TCU can be used getting to the second bolt. The shallow pin can also be backed up by a TCU. Other gear I used were a #2 and #3 Camalot for the upper bits. The anchors are open cold-shuts, but not open enough to drop your rope in.

Fun route. Some of the suspect dirty rock was actually surprisingly solid. Mar 29, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.8
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.8
She's now a relatively clean girl. Doug cleaned a little remaining rotten rock, but most of the rock was quite good despite it's questionable appearance. Getting to the first bolt is probably the trickiest part. May 5, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
I agree that getting to the first bolt is the crux. This route should be to the left of Large Crack and to the right of Learner's Permit. Sep 25, 2013

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