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Routes in Rebel Wall
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Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Happy Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Learner's Permit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Southpaw S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 509 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Hiro Protagonist on Aug 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Per the rockfall mitigation project has been completed. Marked as archived / Project Status: Complete on CODOT.
Project Work Resumes Nov. 13 Following Summer Shutdown
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
codot.gov/projects/us-6-cle…
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Per the rockfall mitigation project has been completed. Marked as archived / Project Status: Complete on CODOT.
Project Work Resumes Nov. 13 Following Summer Shutdown
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
codot.gov/projects/us-6-cle…
Description
Learner's Permit is the far left route on the wall and the right crack on the among the prominent pair which are easily seen during approach. Begin at the bottom with a simply scramble to some thick slabs standing vertically to form the offwidth which comprises the entire route.
The route continues straight up from that point, the crack narrows about one foot back from the face during most of the route, allowing you to place gear. Gear options also exist on the sides, although I did not notice any good placements during the bulk of the middle portion of the route. Many placement opportunities exist at the top and bottom of the route.
At the top is a very large rock which seemed quite stable, you could sling it perhaps, instead I put pro in the various spaces underneath it.
Note - you don't normally rap this route, so I didn't get an idea of how long it is.
At the time of this writing (August 2012), there are various loose rocks and holds all the way up the route. See the condition report, be very careful - prudence would suggest staying well clear of the route (both climbers and spectators) if you don't have a helmet on your head!!! With the extra hazard and detours required, I'd rate it at least 5.7.
The route continues straight up from that point, the crack narrows about one foot back from the face during most of the route, allowing you to place gear. Gear options also exist on the sides, although I did not notice any good placements during the bulk of the middle portion of the route. Many placement opportunities exist at the top and bottom of the route.
At the top is a very large rock which seemed quite stable, you could sling it perhaps, instead I put pro in the various spaces underneath it.
Note - you don't normally rap this route, so I didn't get an idea of how long it is.
At the time of this writing (August 2012), there are various loose rocks and holds all the way up the route. See the condition report, be very careful - prudence would suggest staying well clear of the route (both climbers and spectators) if you don't have a helmet on your head!!! With the extra hazard and detours required, I'd rate it at least 5.7.
Location
Look for the two parallel cracks from afar. Walk left of where the trail likely brought you up, until you find the prominent crack.
Protection
Mabe suggests standard rack to #2 Camalot - climbing with that would be very different than how I did it. Having just climbed it, I would bring SR light on small sizes, up to #3 C4. Perhaps take multiple #3 to protect using the back of the main crack. I also used all red, gold, and blue DMM Torque Nuts (hexes). Nuts didn't seem that useful, bring a light selection maybe.
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