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Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mark Pell and Alvino Pon, early 1990s? possibly done by others earlier
Page Views: 138 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Oct 22, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun climb, and it is to the right of the Large Crack which is described on this site.

The crux is exiting the chimney once you are inside it, or moving to the left once you are out of the chimney. There is a #4 Camalot sized crack above the chimney. This is a good moderate climb for this cliff.

Location

This is in the middle of the wall to the left of Mama Said Knock You Out. It starts in a crack system below a chimney capped by a small roof. You can walk off to the left or go to the Body English anchor to descend.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. There is one fixed pin. There are no anchors on top unless you go to the Body English anchor.

Photos

Alvino and I climbed this in the early 1990s while we were developing the other routes at Rebel Wall, but I think this line was probably climbed before by unknown others, at least once. It is a cool route and protects pretty well with a wide variety of gear once you're about 12-15' off the main starting ledge. Above the chimney, there is a blind 2" horizontal cam placement on the right where it's kind of weird and off-width. It's not real easy to see or place, but it's bomber and confidence-inspiring. A short strenuous squirm up the wide crack and the real difficulties are over, then it's an easy scramble up and right to belay at the bolts in the ceiling above the big ledge that also serves Mama Said and Body English. I thought the moves getting into and out of the chimney were great stuff. You can pretend you're Doctor Hemlock training for the Eiger. Mar 23, 2014
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
According to my notes and Alvino's topo, that is also what I referred to as 'Large Crack'. This route has a fixed pin. Oct 28, 2013