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Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alvino Pon and Mark Pell, 1995
Page Views: 501 total, 3/month
Shared By: tobias Nitschke on May 4, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the obvious second pitch to "Body English". There are some nice moves through a roof--a bit pumpy if you're the one placing the gear--then you're pretty much done. Rappel back to last belay anchor (you'll have to angle out to the east a bit) or there may be a tree with slings a bit to the west.

Per Mark Pell: this originally was done as a second pitch for Mama Said Knock You Out.

Protection

Cams and wires....

Photos

FA 1995 by me and Alvino Pon. Upper Cut was actually done first as Pitch 2 of Mama Said Knock You Out, but it does make a nice second lead for Body English and is a standard right-hand exit for any route that goes to the central ledge. A quick dose of exposure at the crux as you pull over into the corner, then it's a cruise on good pro with a couple of airy stems. You can make a clean belay right there at the finish and bring up your second with a nice view of the action. To descend, walk left about 20' or so to the Curse Of Eve belay/descent anchor and do a short rap straight back to the ledge, then down again from the belay bolts/chains in the roof there. One 50m rope is plenty long for both raps. Going all the way to the ground with double ropes is possible but a very hard pull and not recommended. Another rappel route is to scramble right about 20' from the finish and locate the belay/descent anchor on top of Bust A Move. Do two single-rope raps by also using the anchor on the big ledge above Only The Strong, at the base of the angled ramp as seen from above. This is a good opportunity to look over Bust A Move on your way down, or maybe TR it or dress it for a quick pinkpoint lead. Mar 23, 2014