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Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 870 total · 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

It has only taken 20 years to get up here, and when we do we escape with one of the easiest lines on the wall. Large Crack isn't really climbed that way for long since much of it can be climbed as a dihedral or a face with gear in the crack. Begin Large Crack on the left side of Rebel Wall, just left of the big tree. There is a roof with a right-facing dihedral on the left end and this has a crack in it that is Large Crack. The climbing overall seemed pretty simple and the gear available pretty much where ever it was wanted. Turning the corner at the roof reminded me of Tagger but with even better Friend placements. The rock was solid but still shed some surface debris. As an intro, Large Crack was acceptable and interesting enough to entice me back to the other lines on the wall.

Protection

Do this as one long pitch with a walk off on the left and you will need a 50m rope, a couple of extra slings, a rack full of wired stoppers, a full set of Friends, and supplemental #2 and #3 Camalots. 120 feet.

Photos

goingUp
over here
 
goingUp   over here
 
The crack pictured is about 30 ft to the left of Mabe's description for "large crack". A stiff 5.9, but ample pro placement throughout! Onsighted this yesterday and in the process did a lot of gardening!

On the top, on the 4th class ledge, there is a great place to sit and belay, and rather than walk off, we walked to the cold shuts and simply rapped to the base of 'Body English'. May 18, 2013
I think the line pictured in the current (5/13) photo is not what the Mabe guidebook calls Large Crack but is to the left of it. The crack we climbed today headed through a large slot in the roof - it did not follow the dihedral pictured. Perhaps I'm just confused. In any event, a good line if somewhat burly pulling the roof. May 18, 2013
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.9
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.9
The route had some interesting vegetation, bird-flu, and bat nests, but really, it was a pretty fun climb. The gear is all there, though a bit tricky above the chimney. I would highly recommend skipping the top most part of the crack though and wandering a bit right to the nearby anchors saving yourself a walkoff. Aug 19, 2010