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Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Alvino Pon and Mark Pell, early 1990s
Page Views: 403 total · 2/month
Shared By: tobias nitchka on May 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Nice route. If you wanna place gear in the canyon, this is one to consider. It starts up a big left-facing dihedral, goes over a bulge, then later a roof. There are plenty of placement options. As the climbing gets easier (although the rock is a bit sketchier), head left up under the huge overhang. There's an anchor there that you can rap off (or continue on with the short second pitch named "Upper Cut"--recommended).

The Colorado Front Range book lists this as over a 100 foot rappel, but it's not. The length of the climb is more like 80 feet total. It has a great belay ledge with nice views of the canyon and kayakers in the spring.

Protection

Medium rack. I only used wires and cams, though hexes would have taken well....

Photos

Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
 
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
 
I thought this is a quality route. Hexes do work really well on this climb. I thought it was closer to 100', though we didn't bring a measuring tape and we stopped at the chains which adds a little. There wasn't more than ~30' of the 70m rope on the ground for the rap. Apr 20, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
To clarify, the anchors listed as 110' (from Alvino's notes) are further left along the ledge system (above Epidote, I think). The first two cold shuts you get to at the top of Body English are really only about 85' back to the ledge.

Classic and fun route. Great gear, solid stone, fun jamming. Plenty of body English gets you through the hard parts. A #4 Camalot was nice to have. Mar 29, 2010
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.9
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.9
This was my first time to the area, and I picked Body English because of how beautiful of a line it was. The movement on the climb was funky, challenging, and spectacular. Very fun route!! Jul 18, 2011
'Preciate all the nice comments. This is another route by me and Alvino Pon from the early '90s, and it is a hidden gem and well protected with clean gear. Your body will point in all directions of the compass as you work your way up between secure rest stances. If a move seems too funky one way, just face the other way and it will open up to you. This is one of those you'll wish was hundreds of feet tall. Mar 23, 2014
Rob Meringolo
Denver, CO
 
Rob Meringolo   Denver, CO
 
If you want to feel extra secure bring a #4 BD cam. Place both #3s I had and could have used the bigger piece through the wider section in the middle, not completely necessary though, just my 2 cents. If you are hunting for CCC cracks, this should be on your list. Jul 26, 2014
Mark Hammond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Mark Hammond   Eldorado Springs, CO
Fun route. Sketchy block just to the right as you pull the 2nd roof. Avoidable, but big enough to kill someone and teetering. Dec 12, 2017

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