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Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 195 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 771 total · 8/month
Shared By: Doug Redosh on Apr 25, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Ignore the V0- in the rating. It is a typo that I could not remove.

The crux is the exposed upper headwall. There are several loose blocks, but otherwise it is a good adventure for the 5.8 trad leader.

P1. Climb the small crack for 15', traverse right on small ledge, then go up a crack system to 2 bolt anchor (55').

P2. Go up the slot above the anchors, trending left to avoid loosely attached block. Continue up easy rock for 40 feet, then attack the headwall via hand and finger cracks. Avoid a loosely attached block at the top (140').

Descent: we walked 100' West to the anchors atop Epidote.

Location

It is 20' right of large, rightfacing dihedral at the right end of crag, and just right of Down to the Wire, which has a bolt about 30' up.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8-
I did this route today, climbing by the picture posted on here. In the Mabe guide the pitch is further to the right. What I did today seemed about 5.8- in difficulty and there was a crack for protection. Oct 2, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This climb is probably better if you lower off after P1. The 2nd pitch has some definite scruff. There are a number of holds that shift, some blocks that move if you accidentally bump it with a knee, and pleasant bushes to scratch you up. May 5, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Whoever put this up has great taste in music. Captain Beefheart is the man. Apr 26, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.8-
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.8-
Generally nice climbing even though a bit dirty. As Doug mentioned, beware of a couple loose blocks on P2. One is to the left about 15 ft up from the belay ledge atop P1 and the other is about 12 ft from the top of P2 right in the route line. Both are 20-30 lb and would probably land on US 6 below (so we didn't dare clean them). We were also wary of a refrigerator-sized block about 10 ft directly above the P1 belay ledge that has cracks on both sides and no bottom support, and avoided using the cracks on either side of it. Apr 26, 2010

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