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Routes in Rebel Wall

Amy Is No Help T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Body English T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Girl T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Down to the Wire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Floppy Boot Stamp T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Large Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learner's Permit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Make It So T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mama Says Knock You Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southpaw S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Alvino Pon and Mark Pell, 1994
Page Views: 502 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a decent pitch with a bit of spice that climbs harder than it looks.

It has a couple cruxes, one near the ground and one high up (if you go to the Only the Strong anchors). Be prepared for a stiff start that actually may favor shorter folks. The middle section includes some more moderate but interesting terrain. Go right at the 3rd bolt. The 5.11 crux comes just before the 4th bolt. Stay right. If necessary, you can A1 the 1st & 4th bolts.

Per Mark Pell: the bolts were hand drilled from aid and free stances. Bolt two replaces a pin that disappeared from the horizontal crack in the shallow corner low on the route. The original line went up and left from bolt 3 to the obvious flake (clean pro there, long runner). Pass the flake on the right on moderate face (slightly run out?) and go up a shallow groove with more clean pro available from a small wire (HB offset or RP nut) and small Tricam. Above there, it eases and you start traversing right to the standing belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor in the roof block above, as for Only The Strong, etc. Done this way, Make It So is 9+/10- low on the route but a bit serious above bolt 3. The alternative is to move up and right from bolt 3 on thin but positive face to what has been called bolt 4 but is actually the crux bolt on Only The Strong, which joins from the right via the well-protected flake crack. Done this way you get a better line and another crux, probably 11-. Finish straight up to the bolt anchor at the ledge.

Location

This is just right of the big dihedral, Body English.

Protection

4 bolts, small cams, an attentive belayer. Optional ~#3 Camalot before the 1st bolt. 2 bolt anchor if you go right to the Only the Strong anchors (which are hidden from view) or gear if you go left and finish with Make It Go.

Photos

Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
  5.11 PG13
Le Bob   Lakewood,CO
  5.11 PG13
I think the 1st bolt and 2nd bolt moves are 5.11 climbing. There must've been a hold that broke off. Jan 6, 2018
This is a route by me and Alvino Pon, done in 1994. Bolts were hand drilled from aid and free stances. Bolt two replaces a pin that disappeared from the horizontal crack in the shallow corner low on the route. The original line went up and left from bolt 3 to the obvious flake (clean pro there, long runner). Pass the flake on the right on moderate face (slightly run out?) and go up a shallow groove with more clean pro available from a small wire (HB offset or RP nut) and small Tricam. Above there, it eases and you start traversing right to the standing belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor in the roof block above, as for Only The Strong, etc. Done this way, Make It So is 9+/10- low on the route but a bit serious above bolt 3. The alternative is to move up and right from bolt 3 on thin but positive face to what has been called bolt 4 but is actually the crux bolt on Only The Strong, which joins from the right via the well-protected flake crack. Done this way you get a better line and another crux, probably 11-. Finish straight up to the bolt anchor at the ledge. Mar 23, 2014
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.10
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.10
Pulling the move at the first bolt is harder than 9 but not too much harder... then there is another 9 move by the 2nd bolt. After that, no move is harder than 5.7 (if you go the right way). Apr 8, 2011
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.11 PG13
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.11 PG13
The guidebook shows it going L at the third bolt. One could presumably place some gear behind the flake going that way. We TR'ed it from the anchors above to the R, which are visible from the ground, but not when one is traversing to these anchors from 2/3's up Body English, as Leo did. Going this way, up and R, is definitely solid 5.11. Moving past the 1st bolt is 10c or harder IMHO. May 5, 2010

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