Elevation: 6,800 ft
GPS: 39.738, -105.316 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,772 total · 260/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: 2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details

Description

The crag is located on top of the hill above the New River Wall. It is an excellent crag that receives lots of sun. This makes for great winter crag. The routes here tend to be vertical to overhung, often containing small roofs to navigate. The bolting is generous and safe. Overall, this is a great area, but the twenty minute approach limits its popularity. That said, this cliff makes for a less-crowded climbing area if you are willing to walk a little. Most routes are in the 5.10 - 5.11 range, with a few 5.12s that are very good. It should be noted that many of the 5.10 lines are soft for the grade and make good routes for the 5.9 leader who is aspiring to lead 5.10. Most of the routes are on solid stone, but some of the less traveled routes will have some loose rock, still. In general, the right (main) wall is very solid, while the routes on the left side tend to be a bit more loose.

Getting There

Park at the large paved pullout before Tunnel 2. Walk up the road on the right side and cross the bridge. Then look to your right and locate a small climbers trail heading back dowstream (same as for The New River Wall). Continue on this trail above a treacherous section of cliff and past Twitch Rock. The trail continues up to a flat area, where the faint trail for New River Wall heads right and downstream. Stay on the main trail (left fork), heading up hill. Continue up the trail, with some slabby rock sections for about 400 yds to the top. The trail will put you a little left of a prominent, right-facing dihedral with two bolted lines on it (Peer Pressure (5.12a) and Peer Review (5.12b), and a trad climb in the corner. This is the main division of the wall and represents the landmark for the wall, splitting it into right and left sides. Routes listed will be in reference to this dihedral. Allow 20 minutes for the approach.

Addendum: some may use the optional, riskier Tyrolean.

L->R:

Left Face

A. Tarzan, 12+, 1p, bolts.
B. Leap of Faith, 12+ 1p, bolts.
C. Microchip, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
DC. Red Tag Hag, 12+, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Wind Machine, 11+, 1p, bolts.
F. Highlander, 10+, 1p, bolts.
G. Stiff Upper Lip, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Main Face

H1. Get a Life, 7, 1p, 150', gear.
H2. Get Insurance, 9+, 1p, 150', gear.
I. Get a Job, 11-, 1p, 135', bolts.
J. Job Review, 11-, 1p, 135', bolts.
K1. Peer Pressure, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
K2. Peer 42, 13-, 1p variation to K3, bolts.
K3. Peer Bastard, 13b, 1p, 95', bolts.
K4. Peer Review, 12, 2p, 100?', bolts.
K5. Gearhead, 9, 1p, 75',gear.
K6. Airhead, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic, 11-, 1p, 95', bolts.
M. Neo-Quasi Bugaloo, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Learning to Crawl, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Blue Sky Mining, 11+, 1p, 85', bolts.
P. Burning Chrome, 11, 1p, 85', bolts.
Q. Job Security, 11, 1-2p, 150', bolts.
R. Not One of Us, 12-, 3p, <200', bolts.
S. Resume, 9, 1p, bolts.
T. The Outsider, 11+, 1p, 95', bolts.
U. Smack that Bitch Up, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
V. Big Man on Campus, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

East Face

W. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
X. The White Whale, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Y. Dirt Me, 12- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
Z. Lord of the Rings, 10, 1p, bolts.

Below East Face

AA. Wheezer, 12-, 1p, bolts.
BBAA. Geezer, 11+, 1p, bolts.

32 Total Climbs

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Location: The Highlands aka Highlander Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Highlands aka Highlander

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 73
Gear Head
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 200
Learning to Crawl
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 232
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
Job Review
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 84
Smack That Bitch Up
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 33
Get a Job
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 146
Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 58
Job Security
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 49
Burning Chrome
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 59
Blue Sky Mining
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 54
Not One Of Us
Sport 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Peer Pressure
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 101
Peer Review
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Peer 42
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
The White Whale
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gear Head
 73
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Learning to Crawl
 200
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo
 232
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Job Review
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Smack That Bitch Up
 84
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Get a Job
 33
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic
 146
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Job Security
 58
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Burning Chrome
 49
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Blue Sky Mining
 59
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Not One Of Us
 54
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 3 pitches
Peer Pressure
 29
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Peer Review
 101
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Peer 42
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The White Whale
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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