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Routes in The Highlands aka Highlander

Air Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Man On Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burning Chrome S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dirt Me S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Drop Zone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gear Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Get A Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Insurance T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Get a Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highlander S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Job Review S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Job Security S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Leap of Faith S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Learning to Crawl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Rings S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Micro Chip S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not One Of Us S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Outsider, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peer 42 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Peer Bastard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peer Pressure S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peer Review S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Red Tag Hag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Resume S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smack That Bitch Up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stiff Upper Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Whale, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wind Machine S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Richard Wright, ABS, Thomas A. McFarlane, Feb. 1995
Page Views: 2,268 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 17, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The first fully bolted route completed on The Highlander crag, Job Review ascends the large grey plate that is left of the sprawling ledge system used for the "Peer" routes.

What a treat to be able to credit one these first ascents to Dr. Tom McFarlane. A long time guide from Estes Park, and an accomplished trad climber, Tom had to suck a lot of wind to watch me drill holes in the rock. I had the opportunity to climb for a full year with Tom before seeing him off to medical school and a brilliant career as a family clinician.

Job Review is the right of two long routes in this sector, one that he and I started and ABS and I finished. Shuffle up on easy terrain and half a dozen or fewer clips to a spot just below a small roof. Get a clip, move a bit right for a second clip, and swing out left to negotiate the roof. A friction crux on small feet, the roof is completed by padding back right to stand just above the last clip. It has cool moves that I always thought were 5.10 but are better imagined as 5.11a. This is bit reachy, and it helps to have a ridiculous ape index. A slew of clips and close to 80 more feet of friction climbing through seams and water channels gains the anchors.

This route is a gas by any measure and worth all of the two stars that I'll give it here.

Protection

QDs only. This 120 foot route needs 13 - 14 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. Don't even contemplate doing Job Review or its neighbor, Get A Job, without a 70m rope. There is no mid point anchor.

Photos

Anyone have beta for the crux for someone 5'6" (or under)? From the undercling (even sliding it right) I can't reach the crimp, even fully extended. I can't reach the bolt with a normal draw (I use a long Kong to get it clipped), and after many tries, twice I've given up and grabbed the draw to move through the crus. Aside from this I don't have difficulty with the rest of the climb. Kinda stumped. Sep 17, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
See the comments above, a 70m is adequate. Feb 3, 2013
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
Can you lower off a 70m off this or do you need to rap with double ropes? Feb 3, 2013
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
If you're careful, you can rap to the wide ledge, which leaves a reasonable downclimb to the east, on a 60m (knot the ends to be safe). Dec 12, 2011
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Both this climb and its neighbor to the left are fun 5.10+ face climbing with one ridiculous reach each. I don't think either one is 5.11- if you are short. At 5'8", I found both to be much harder than other 11+ climbs in the area. May 13, 2011
70m rope is perfect. Nov 21, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
My partner's 70m rope easily reached from the anchors to the ground. In fact, there was probably two feet on the ground. Either his rope is cut really long or the route is not really 135' long. Oct 19, 2009
John Kelley
Sedona, AZ
 
John Kelley   Sedona, AZ
 
Fun long route. Definitely recommended, well protected, interesting climbing. Mar 21, 2005
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I really enjoyed getting on this climb on the lead this past weekend. I thought it had 3 distinct cruxes first getting into the stem in the hanging corner off the ledge after the easy climbing, then the undercling left after the stem and finally the face move above the roof. Each of these sections seemed about the same difficulty to me. I found getting the clip after standing up in the stem to be really precarious. The rest of the climb after the face move above the roof is just excellent steep face climbing, very sustained in the 9/10a range.I thought this was a super enjoyable aesthetic line with a good variety of moves with great air for a sport route. Dec 7, 2004
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
I'm 5'11", 0" ape but got the move above the roof by sliding my left hand along the undercling until I got the best body position, not the most positive grip. Then I smeared the right foot up on a sloping dish. I released the undercling as I rocked over my right foot and put my left hand up on a non-descript face hold left of the bolt for balance while extending the right hand for the edge without stopping. This one's worth coming back to. Dec 6, 2004
Well, I am 5'6 3/4", and this climb was a workout. The most difficult section was the face after the initial overhang. I had to move slightly left after the roof and back right to the next bolt. Fancy footwork and some smaller moves up the face kept it together. Great climb! Aug 26, 2003
I just did this route yesterday and it is indeed quite fun, though I disagree with the friction crux or even friction climbing. This is a face climb with varied and cool moves.

There are only 3 clips on the easy terrain leading up to the roof. I found moving left at the roof the toughest part because it was hard for me to figure out and a big pumpy here. I solved it with an iron cross in order to move my feet left. Here, you do need some good friction for your feet, but this isn't considered the crux (according to the guidebook).

The next section is the crux and involves a huge, iron cross type reach from an undercling (with the left hand) to a small edge. This is a big reach, but I'm only 5'11" and don't think I have much of an ape index (if positive at all). Without reaching this hold, I'd think the grade would be MUCH harder.

Further up the climbing isn't all that friction oriented - at least if you've climbed slabs in Yosemite. If you have climbed real friction, then this is just a face climb. There is a hard section further up (mid to upper 5.10, I'd guess) where you have to step up high on a good edge, but without seemingly out any holds.

A great, fun route that I would recommend highly if you are close to six feet tall. I've love to hear how a 5'6" person would do this route. Mar 11, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
This is stiff for 11a. 5'10" +2" ape and can't reach it. Perhaps a slabmaster.... Mar 5, 2002