Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, 1996
Page Views: 1,202 total · 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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Lord of the Rings is the third route off the ramp on the East face and the furthest right. The rock to start is decidedly in need of heavy duty brushing but the climbing on Lord of the Rings just gets better and better with each move up the route. A very interesting sequence takes you up to the roof and swings wide to the right on jugs, stepping back left once over the route. This route was a kick, and it would certainly see more traffic if it was on the other side of Highlander. The climbing is much steeper than it might appear.


Bring 9 or 10 draws, a 50m rope, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Definitely loose rock, weird moves, especially that one over the roof. Needs a lot of cleaning to earn 2 stars. Mar 5, 2002
clint dillard
Louisville, Co
clint dillard   Louisville, Co
This route has cleaned up a bit, but still be heads up for rock around the route. As the guidebook says, "it's better than it looks." Like the rest of the 5.10s in this area and noted above, it is soft for its grade. If you're wanting to climb the route this time of year, get on it early because it loses sun mid morning. The 3rd/4th (5th for some) class traverse kind of sucks with packs on, so you may want to rack up before you make the step across. Jan 15, 2006
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Definitely better than it looks, and definitely better as you get high.

The roof is absolutely one of the singular joys of the entire canyon, worth scrubbing up all the mankey choss just to work out the moves--which, not by the way, aren't the crux of the climb once you get the sequence down. On the whole, I think it's only a 10a or possibly b for shorter climbers.

A great alternative once the traffic thickens over on the south-facing side.... Apr 1, 2010
Colorado Springs, CO
Joshua1979   Colorado Springs, CO
Climbs better than it looks. Give it a shot. Mar 16, 2013
Michael Underwood
Broomfield, CO
Michael Underwood   Broomfield, CO
This route is definitely cleaner now than some of the previous posts seem to imply. I'm not saying you should neglect your helmet or anything, but I thought the moves and the holds were pretty solid and definitely fun. It's a good warm-up under any circumstances, but especially when the south side of the crag is a little bit busy. Jan 27, 2016