Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1996
Page Views: 1,544 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: 2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details

Description

Stiff Upper Lip is just as advertised, delivering the crux after the very last clip and the last roof problem. The entire left side of Highlander is composed of various roof problems, most difficult. Stiff Upper Lip is the first route encountered on the right side of the roof sector.

It takes off up a sparsely bolted slab at 5.8 to 5.9 to gain the roof system at an awkward crack that splits the first roof. Munge through the first roof to gain a second roof on huge deep flakes and great body movement. Just turn off the brain and muscle up the overlaps. Get situated below the third overlap, get the last clip, and pull a 5.12b/c (closer to c) crux while looking at anchors that are just out of reach! Thin, technical, and powerful, the crux has been avoided entirely by dropping a sling from the anchor. This is bomb-proof bolting, so hang in for the final move, there is not a chance in hell of getting hurt, just make the move.

If it were not for the easy entry slab, Stiff Upper Lip would certainly go with three stars for the big, fun, powerful moves on way overhanging stone. Bring the biceps and you'll have a blast - just save a crimp or two for the anchors. The Master of Clear Creek strikes again.

Protection

QDs only. This 70 foot roof problem needs only 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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