Type: Sport, 95 ft Fixed Hardware (12)
FA: Alan Nelson, '98
Page Views: 3,903 total · 20/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


132 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: 2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details

Description

This route is to the left of the two long 5.10 routes on the right side of the wall. Start with a short headwall to a ledge. This route gets a PG-13 rating for the runout to the 2nd bolt above the ledge. The climbing is only 5.8 in this section. The fun climbing is above. A slabby bulge and the final overhang will test your onsight abilities. This route may feel harder than 5.11b, if the correct line is not followed.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11
Fun route. Extended draws on bolt 3 and 4 help with the rope drag. Well protected through the crux moving left at the top. Mar 29, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11 PG13
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11 PG13
Super fun route once you get onto the face after 4th bolt or so. Really cool/exposed moves working into the dihedral. Don't let the 5.6 run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt psyche you away from this gem. Jan 25, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b
One of my absolute faves in the canyon and my first official 11b red point after the bastards downgraded (rightfully) my favorite 5.11: Feline, the best cat in Rifle.

Beautiful, long, and tricky--even through the 5.9ish sections. The crux dihedral sequence is very gulp-tastic and not to be missed. Clean falls if you can't master the sequence.

SHAMELESS SPOILER BETA: The crux dihedral at the top admits of two sequences, one with a lower, far more direct approach (worse feet, takes more crimp strength), on one that takes the leader way up and right to an airy and scary wild traverse across obvious holds (takes a keen sequence to send those bouldery moves). I'm not at all sure which is better/harder. But the falls are clean, baby, clean. So throw down, young leader. Aug 27, 2009
A nice route. Definitely a grade above the two tens next to it. Tough crux bulge at the top for sure. Did not figure it out the first time, awkward final clip. Definitely worth climbing. Dec 19, 2010
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
If you're short (I'm 5'6"), placing the draw on the third bolt above the ledge is scary. It's not just a 5.6 runout for someone of my height. To reach the bolt, I had to climb quite a bit above the ledge and do 10- slab moves using suspect, fractured rock for handholds. If you fell, you would not only hit the ledge, there's groundfall potential if you then bounced off the ledge.

I placed a shoulder-length runner on that bolt in addition to the draw to allow clipping from a safe stance. I suggest that if you're short you try to get a friend to hang a long draw on the bolt for you. Oct 15, 2011