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Routes in The Highlands aka Highlander

Air Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Man On Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burning Chrome S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dirt Me S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Drop Zone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gear Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Get A Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Insurance T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Get a Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highlander S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Job Review S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Job Security S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Leap of Faith S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Learning to Crawl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Rings S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Micro Chip S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not One Of Us S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Outsider, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peer 42 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Peer Bastard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peer Pressure S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peer Review S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Red Tag Hag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Resume S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smack That Bitch Up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stiff Upper Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Whale, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wind Machine S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1995
Page Views: 2,870 total, 14/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Air Head is the first route on the large ledge system that sits below the great dihedral of The Highlands crag, to the right of Peer Pressure. The climbing starts right at a single belay bolt and ascends a short wall for several clips before taking on the obvious, large, flake system. Follow the flake to the chain anchor for some moderate but very enjoyable climbing movement. The overall climbing is more like 5.9 than 5.10. A single hard move past the first bolt delivers the crux right away. Stay on your feet, pay attention, and pick off a nice pitch that is well protected. Air Head provides a nice warm-up for the harder climbs off the ledge. I'd go with a star for the position, the big flake feature, and the overall good rock.

Protection

QsD only. This 70 foot route needs only 7 or 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Loose Rock

Addendum: this route is and has been particularly known for its loose rock. Belayers, climbers, and bystanders beware.
Tane Owens
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Tane Owens   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Loose flake towards the top came off today with little effort. Now the top is a little less sketchy. Dec 4, 2014
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.9
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.9
The move to the anchor is kind of not great and the anchor location kind of sucks as well. Climb it if you are there, but be careful. Oct 11, 2014
Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
  5.9-
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
  5.9-
We climbed this with a 60m rope from the ground without any rope drag issues. No need to scramble to the ledge. Oct 28, 2013
goingUp
over here
  5.10a
goingUp   over here
  5.10a
The start has some deck potential, and the crux comes in passing bolt 2-3. Enjoyable moves and the flakes/arĂȘte can be climbed several different ways. Jun 8, 2013
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
This has cleaned up considerably over the years. There is now only one semi-loose flake, almost at the top, that is avoidable. Nov 1, 2010
Rob Westfall
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Rob Westfall   Denver, CO
  5.10a
I don't trust some of the flakes as they sounded like a bass drum. Constant Vigilance. Jul 18, 2009
rags
  5.10a
rags  
  5.10a
Nice route! I didn't want the flake to end. Make sure to take in the great exposure - after clipping the chains, ha!! Jul 31, 2007
I knocked a large rock off today and it nearly destroyed a few people at the base, another good reason for a helmet. (And to WATCH your children if they're runnin' wild.) Some of the rock on this route is real crumbly, I barely weighted it with my foot but that was enough. For the most part, it is solid and fun. Oct 26, 2002
Saw some people pull off a big ass rock on this thing yesterday. Pulled it from the flake system, in all actuality it probably made the route even cleaner and therefore nicer:) Jul 5, 2002
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
The sharp edges are only a factor if you're clipped to the belay bolt. There is good clearance if you stand down and away from the rock. Good anchor for TR on Gear Head as well. Jul 3, 2002
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
The move off the deck is not hard, but the free fall potential onto the ledge below hightens your attention. The crux seems to be between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. My partner so delicately clipped the 3rd before the move somehow; maybe he dislocated his shoulder momentarily, threw his arm and draw toward the bolt while standing on his toe ends and retracted back into normalicy to continue the climb. I think it is easier to make the move and then clip while the bolt is within easy reach. The rest of the climb is a cruise with lots of opportunity to play with the flake / arete. Really cool anchor chains although watch the rope as you lower; I seem to remember a couple of sharp edges higher up. Jun 30, 2002