Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 1,946 total · 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: 2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details

Description

Perhaps the best line on the West half of Highlander, Leap of Faith starts up the slab about 20 ft right of Tarzan firing off the main roof and a small overlap just below the anchor. This route is really deceptive and just gets more difficult the higher you climb. 5.9, 5.10, 5.12a moves deceive one into believing that the line is finished until you are just about looking at the anchor. Clip the last bolt off very fine finger edges, then, just five feet from the anchor, make a delicate, tricky reach to a seam on the right followed by a big move to a jug and the anchor. It all feels so unfair, like breaking a leg moments before crossing the finish-line at the Boston Marathon. Leap of Faith is an excellent route that deserves more traffic.

Protection

Bring 8 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Who has done this route recently? My partner broke a glued on hold at the very top in spring of 2001. The hold was large. It looked about three feet by three feet, but I did not get a good chance to take a good look at it since I was busy getting out of its way, and my partner did not know it was coming down so he did not see it. Lucky for me, the rock hit in front of me, shattered, and only glanced off of my arm. If it beaned me in the head, me and my partner would not be here today. Has this route gone since? It is probably harder now since the foot hold for the leap of faith broke. I believe that this is another reason to stop glueing, since glue is temperary. Elijah Flenner Aug 15, 2001
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
I wasn't able to find the right body position to dyno from the sidepull to the top, but I found that I could get to the top static utilizing a sharp one finger crimp for the right hand, above the last bolt. Sep 7, 2008
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12d
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12d
Yeah, there really is no literal dyno anymore since the hold broke, the new beta is a tricky deadpoint. Dec 7, 2008
Andrew Tower
San Francisco
  5.12d
Andrew Tower   San Francisco
  5.12d
Feel the sugar cube love. Dec 10, 2008
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
It seemed like a big right hand bump from and to sidepulls or a lock off on the one finger crimp (that Joshua mentions) with the left hand? Thoughts anyone? Either way it felt unpleasant IMO. The rock is still crumbling in places on this one. Mar 13, 2013