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Routes in The Highlands aka Highlander

Air Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Man On Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Sky Mining S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burning Chrome S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dirt Me S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Drop Zone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gear Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Get A Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Insurance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get a Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highlander S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Job Review S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Job Security S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Leap of Faith S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Learning to Crawl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Rings S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Micro Chip S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not One Of Us S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Outsider, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peer 42 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Peer Bastard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peer Pressure S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peer Review S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Red Tag Hag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Resume S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smack That Bitch Up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stiff Upper Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Whale, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wind Machine S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Richard Wright, 1994, FFA: (below the roof) A. Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 6,404 total · 30/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is a killer line! A simple concept: run up the left side (face) of the main dihedral, pull a small roof, chase on up to a second roof, a head wall, and the anchors all for close to 100 feet. The problem is that it never worked out that way; not yet anyway. The bolt on the first roof was placed on rappel with the recognition that it would very likely have to move once the proper sequence through the roof was determined.

In 1996, I watched Pat Adams slip right by, he said 5.13?, but he did not continue to the anchor. He indicated that a better place for the bolt would be 3 feet to the right, so the upper section still has not been done free from beginning to end. Interestingly, the climbing above this first roof is never harder than 5.11c. In 1997, I placed an anchor below the first roof, producing a 70 ft line at 5.12b/c and this was quickly red pointed, first by Alan Nelson in the Spring of 1997.

Enough history. Peer Review begins off the ledge at the base of the main dihedral on Highlander Crag. Start in the flake and crack system and fight up to the divergence with Peer Pressure. As the pump sets in, you pick up some good edges and reasonable feet. Launch into the white head wall with two incipient seams. Hang tight and watch the feet. The sixth clip is creepy but not unsafe. With a fresh start it is probably not harder than 5.11c to get to it, but the pump factor makes it feel a bit desperate.

Chase the seams for two clips or so, and jog back left at the top of the right hand seam on horrible feet and solid 5.12b finger edges for the crux, just below the anchor. Clip the anchor by stepping all of the way around to the left, Beta-max reveals a shallow pocket left of the anchor but user-friendly only when you are "eye-ball to eye-ball" with the hold. The anchor should be at your shoulder, and clipping lower is more desperate. Three stars for sure. Continuity, power, great climbing moves, excellent stone, and good pro make this a must do for a Highlander trip.


QDs only. This 70 foot route needs 9 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. If you push on over the roof, the route is 100 feet from the anchor to the ledge and needs double ropes or a 60 m rope.
Is there a new bolt on this line? Apr 15, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Indeed. Someone retrobolted the roof sequence, and hopefully for the better. I had solved everything except this roof move several years ago but could not pull off the move as originally intended. The new solution comes in from the left to gain the face above the roof. From there on up it never gets harder than mid 5.11. Apr 15, 2002
Indeed, several new bolts added as part of a test of the Dewalt hammer drill. The drill worked great although I was never able to score a promo deal. The left hand var. goes at about 13a, which I almost readpointed in June 02. The right hand variation goes well to & slightly over the lip but after that???? Waiting for cooler weather. If you head up to the final roof expecting only 5.11 I think you're in for a surprise. Aug 9, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Terrific! Moving left always seemed like a reasonable option. Not surprised that it ticked in a bit more difficult, however. Aug 9, 2002
I saw the 13a version go by a teacher from CU... so the FFA is down for sure.... Oct 19, 2004
Dave-o Friedman
Dave-o Friedman   Boulder,CO
The 12b is absolutely fantastic. I've been on almost all the routes at the crag is this by far the best. Not to be missed!!!! Mar 8, 2009

If the 7th bolt was moved down a couple feet, you could clip it from a rest stance instead of tweaking out a few more moves to a slightly committing clip. It would be an almost perfect route. Good climbing on this one, with a reachy throw to a good crimp. Nov 4, 2009
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Super fun climbing and a rad route! Apr 27, 2011
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Great route. Hard for a 12b in CCC. For me this was harder than White Water, River Dance, and Viagra Falls. Harder than TDD, that's for sure.

That deadpoint of the poor crimp at the top is a tough move for me at 5'10" with -1 ape index. Jul 25, 2011
Mark Wiranowski
Mark Wiranowski  
The climb is great and never feels that steep. The feet are pretty good, even on the crux - for tall climbers (I'm 6'0"). However, shorter climbers (below 5'8" ?) may need to step high on much more marginal feet to move off the thin edge handholds. The far right edge on the horizontal below the anchor is most positive. Also, the crack at the bottom is not harder than 5.10 - maybe easy 5.10 if you get the constrictions right. I second the comment above - some clips can feel reachy, so pre-hung draws help (including on the anchor). May 24, 2012
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
This is the only 5.12 I've ever been on anywhere that shut me down completely. I cruised it to the crux at the top of the headwall and then tried absolutely everything I could think of. Nothing even came close. Had to aid through to the anchor with my tail between my legs. I'm kinda short if that makes any difference.

GO Jun 4, 2012

GabeO, I remember a pretty big throw at the top and being really stretched out with my feet on the small stuff (or maybe jamming/pasting a small seam or something like that). I think this one would be tougher for a person who isn't pretty tall. Jun 4, 2012
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
Replaced the two carabiners on the chains yesterday, they were starting to get some nice gouges. If those were you biners and you'd like them back, feel free to contact me. Aug 24, 2014
If you have decent crack technique, the first half of this climb is a cakewalk. If you have poor crack technique, it still isn't that hard (although it will feel much more strenuous). Then a no hands rest softens this climb up making for some excellent onsight potential. The next couple of clips are cake leading you to the crux. If you are tall, this thing goes down without a fight. If you are short, it is more difficult; however, you will be tossing to a very positive, two full pad crimp, so even snow whites buddies could catch this thing with a good toss. I laughed so hard at the above comment that says TDD is easier. Don't let such foolish commentary scare you off a fantastic climb with NO bad holds and GREAT feet. Nov 23, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
Drew, are you trolling? Saying this route has good feet is kind of ridiculous, and just 'cause you're taller certainly doesn't make this move that much easier. An OS would be proud. I would argue that Ten Digit Dialing is slightly easier and Balkan Dirt Diving is significantly easier. Dec 7, 2014

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