Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: RMWright, 1995
Page Views: 2,404 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

Job Security starts on the right sector by taking a shallow, right-facing, corner system. It can be done in two pitches.

P1 has gotten more difficult with the loss of its hanging flake, and probably ticks in at 5.11 rather than 5.10.

P2 has two 5.11 cruxes, the upper being thinner and a bit fingery.

Protection

60 meter rope and either 15 draws or ten. Done as two pitches neither uses more than ten draws. Can be done as a single pitch, but this produces some rope drag.
I agree with the comment about the rating. Did this a while ago and thought it was pretty desperate for 5.10. Felt like mid-5.11 (albeit only for a move or two) to me.

-Walt Nov 16, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11
N.B.: A hanging flake has broken off the entry moves making the start roughly mid 5.11. I'll make the notation change as soon I get a general consensus. My own run suggested something like 11b, but I'll buy whatever makes sense. Nontheless, I wish all you overloaded testosterone studs could have watched the stunning young Argentine crack it open - some women climbers just slay me. Her photos are a grave injustice. Nov 16, 2001
[Whoa] dude! That first pitch was certainly harder than I expected! I'm glad to hear the climb actually changed, rather than that I just suck. I would agree with the 11 rating, probably easier for taller people.mike. May 22, 2003
desbien
seattle,wa
  5.11b
desbien   seattle,wa
  5.11b
Good route, committing to move left at the crux. Nov 10, 2007
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
This is a pretty bitchin' little climb. Best done as one long pitch I'd say. The crux at the 3rd clip is hilarious, and probably easier if your tall. Mar 20, 2008
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11c
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11c
This is a great route and easily done as a single pitch with little rope drag if runners are used at the end of 1st pitch and start of 2nd. Feb 8, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  3rd
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  3rd
P1 MAY go at 10d if you're tall and you know where to look (see beta below).

I don't exactly know where the first 5.11 crux is on P2 (didn't feel 11ish while onsighing) but the headwall crux just below the anchors probably goes at 10d if you move up and left on some obvious edges and crimpers, which of course steals the show. Instead (and we only discovered this on rappel), lieback right off the obvious rail at your waist and fire high and right to a can't-see-from-below jug, THEN take the headwall bulge at what promises to be 5.11 joy.

SHAMELESS SPOILER BETA: P1, as I mentioned, might go at 10d if you're tall. At the small roof (B3 and 4), instead of reaching up and left to the chalked-up knob, keep your weight over your feet and reach way up and under the roof and use the force, Luke. A little high searching will reward you with the (hidden) undercling of the gods. Apr 26, 2010
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
At P1 crux, one does not need to stay under the roof, instead go left for a great, exposed, R-facing lay back, awesome moves. Nov 24, 2011