Type: Sport, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 966 total · 26/month
Shared By: SteveZ on Nov 28, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: 2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details

Description

Begin up an easy gully, that's a little gritty, to a high first bolt. From a nice ledge, fire into the crux at the first set of overlaps. Burly crimping or an inobvious sloper sequence puts you at a stance before the pumpy headwall. Continuous face climbing takes you up to and traverses right under the final roof to the anchor.

Location

This is the 2nd bolted route after a short scramble to a nice ledge on the right side of Highlander.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
Powerful crux in the beginning, followed by a pumpy one to the top - very fun route on mostly excellent rock.

I wonder, however, if any holds broke on the left sequence of the lower crux. I saw a few tick marks going up at 10-11 o'clock from the 3rd bolt but no obvious sequence through them. On the other hand, there was a very fun dynamic set of 5.12+ moves taking you at 2 o'clock to a jug on the arete. Unfortunately, at that point, you are 3-5' right of the bolt and away from the wall, with your body swinging out. If you blow it, the fall can be pretty unpleasant. It's not too bad with a soft catch, but your belayer also has to worry about you not hitting the left slope of the starting gully.

Has anyone else tried it recently? Maybe, if there is no longer a left sequence, the 3rd bolt can be moved to the right side of the open book? Sep 26, 2016
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13a
I haven't been on it in a couple years, but maybe I'll check it out and see if any of the little credit card crimps out left broke off. It is a great winter spot, since it gets sun in the morning. Glad you enjoyed it! Sep 26, 2016
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
I was on this last winter. There is a way through the smallish holds...I don't remember exactly how I did it, but it took some contemplating. Knee scum??? Oct 4, 2016
Aaron Ramras
  5.12+
Aaron Ramras  
  5.12+
I was unable to sort out a sequence on the left and bruised my heel a bit even with a good catch attempting to figure out the dyno. If holds did indeed break, moving the bolt right might be a nice solution.

That said, I did eventually figure out a highly technical method to jump straight up to the jug rather than sideways, which helps mitigate the ledge fall a bit. Nov 12, 2017