Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1995
Page Views: 2,254 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: 2016 Raptor Closure - Now Lifted 6/9/16 Details

Description

Blue Sky Mining is the first route to the right of Learning to Crawl. The climbing begins up a steep, short wall that is immediately "in your face" with an awkward 5.11 move. With this little unpleasantness out of the way, the route settles down to some fun 5.11 face climbing. Head for the grey roof and block system above for the supremely well protected 5.11d crux. Slip to the right over the roof and jog back left to the face, a clip or so and the anchors.

Two stars for the high quality rock, the continuity, and the climbing moves. The early crux, right off the deck, can be negotiated on some very thin fingers with a small jog left.

Protection

QDs only. This 85 foot route needs 11 or 12 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

John Kelley
Sedona, AZ
John Kelley   Sedona, AZ
Nice route, begins with a fun bouldery start to a ledge (good, flat landing). Not a bad idea to give the leader a spot til the first bolt. Noticed a very chalked, creaky/loose block to the climbers left, before the crux roof. It can be avoided by using other holds, but be mindful of standing on it moving through the roof. Woman in the photos makes it look much more pretty than I did.... Mar 21, 2005
Rico
Aurora, CO
 
Rico   Aurora, CO
 
Interesting route and moves. It's basically like 5 boulder problems stacked on top of each other. You get a no hands rest after each one. Jan 20, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
 
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
 
Oh My Jesus, what a climb. Stiff city, and you'd better have your crimp strength down for the crux roof thrutching.

FAIR WARNING: the hellish mantle move (B3 and 4?). I've seen a guy pitch before making the thank-the-Jesus clip over the roof and snap an ankle. So heads up.

AS FOR THE FLAKE...the heavily chalked horn just below the roof that moves more than a mamba dancer. I've seen people hang Cadillac off that sucka, and I've yarded on it myself (both as a handhold and as a foothold). Loose or not, I'm not sure that thing is ever going to pop out in our lifetime. But DO let your belayer know to stand to the side. Apr 26, 2010
JJNS  
B3 and 4? What are you talking about? Jan 2, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I am guessing 3rd and 4th bolts. Jan 6, 2012
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Poorly bolted route that poses a risk for injury at the start. Jan 21, 2012
drewhouser
  5.11c
drewhouser  
  5.11c
If it wasn't for that first silly bolt, this would get 4 stars from me. Beta intensive with great movement, this thing will feel hard your first go, but as she reveals the passage through each Boulder problem, you realize there is nothing more than V3 on this beautiful route. As for this climb being dangerous...dangling from the great ledge just above bolt one your feet are 2 ft off the ground, hardly what I would call high balling. Add a flat landing to that, and you have a very safe start. Also you can clip bolt 4 before having to do any of the committing moves. This eliminates any possibilities for a "snapped ankle". This climb is so good I would hate for people to miss it due to these above comments about it being dangerous. Nov 23, 2014
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
Not very dangerous but - the first bolt calls for a spotter. The rest of the route is well-protected but mildly heady. It felt harder than 11d to me. The 3 ft. wide flake seems solid, and it helps a lot. Not near as good as "not one of us". Nov 22, 2015
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
 
Chad Elliott   Las Vegas
 
Every route we did including this one at Highlander had clipping stances that I was completely maxed out on with a scary fall waiting (I'm 5'8"). This route in particular had pretty rusted bolts and anchors. I am worried about the condition of them inside the rock.

Although I have no experience, I would be happy to help someone rebolt/repair this and other climbs. Oct 31, 2016
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11+
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11+
Hey Chad, all rebolting efforts are now managed by Jefferson County Open Space. You can find their rules and regulations regarding replacing hardware on this page, and you can download their guidelines as well as an application to replace hardware there as well.

You can email them here. Nov 1, 2016
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
 
Chad Elliott   Las Vegas
 
Jay, thanks for the quick response! I actually just attended the public meeting they had this past Wednesday. I'm excited to help however I can! Nov 18, 2016