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Colin Simon > Comments
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Jan 6, 2023
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The description and photos should really be updated, as this is the start of the comp route and has been si…
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Aug 5, 2022
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The difficulty of this route is finding it in dry enough conditions. The weather in the Swiss Alps is quite…
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Jul 28, 2022
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Die Fritzenschtoisser
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Nov 22, 2021
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An amazing route. Expect to clip a LOT of old pitons, with old tat included.
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Aug 14, 2018
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Excellent route. The short "runout" between second and third bolts is pretty easy if you are 5'10'' or tall…
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Jul 18, 2016
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Ejesse, Any beta on what pitons fell out and their locations? Contemplating going up there and puttin…
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Jul 17, 2016
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Unlike the other commentors, I think it's important to be a 5.10+ leader to do this route. Also, it is…
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Jul 17, 2016
Alpine Rock
> …
> Glacier Gorge
> Chiefshead
> Chiefshead Nort…
> Birds of Fire (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R)
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I found this route line to be pretty inaccurate. I think this photo does a much better job sticking to t…
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Jul 8, 2016
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Thanks for adding this, Hayden! Jesse made P1 sound pretty serious - 5.11 X status - would you agree?…
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May 21, 2016
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King Tut, could you provide more information to backup the idea that it originally had 17 bolts? I heard ot…
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Nov 18, 2015
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There are no more pitons in the crack in the back as of Nov. 14, 2015. Roy's knifeblade may still exist…
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Oct 21, 2015
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Any more specific gear beta? Any more specific person-size beta on the squeeze? The Harding Slot on Astr…
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Oct 14, 2015
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"Standard Scottish rack" For those of us who haven't ever been to Scotland, this could use development.
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Jul 13, 2015
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This is dangerous for a sport route. A high first bolt off a ledge. Climb past three big, loose flakes -…
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Jun 1, 2012
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I believe pitch 5 absolutely warrants an R rating. You would take a wonderful cheesegrater. Offset cams…
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May 2, 2012
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Possibly my favorite mixed route in RMNP - likely because we had excellent conditions. Styrofoam snice betw…
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Apr 16, 2012
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Mother of God.
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Mar 2, 2012
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I've found that the best resources for Cham are ukclimbing.net and summitpost.org As for guidebooks,…
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Feb 4, 2011
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I think 5.9+ is a pretty accurate grade for most of this route. Given all the other gnarly 5.9's in the val…
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Dec 13, 2010
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Fixed! Left as solid 5.12, I figure that's the same and we can let people rate it and settle on something.
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Dec 4, 2010
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I thought this was the best route at Sweet Rock. Fun, techy start into a rest, then a sustained and pump…
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Nov 28, 2010
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Is it feasible to set up a toprope on this sucker?
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Oct 27, 2010
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Don't let the 5.9 or 5.10a rating fool you. If you grab the pendulum rope (FUN!) the whole thing goes at…
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Oct 15, 2010
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LOVE this caption.
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Oct 11, 2010
Yosemite NP
> …
> Valley S Side
> D. Half Dome
> 1. Northwest Face
> Regular Northwest Fac… (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1)
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Crawl crawl crawl!
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Oct 5, 2010
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Pretty heady! I'd suggest the leader wear a helmet. SWEET belay ledge up top. Absolutely perfect. I have…
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Oct 5, 2010
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This was my first lead ever, in April 2008. I was terrified. I had done a bunch of gym climbing but only…
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Sep 29, 2010
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The finish is wild and orgasmic!
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Sep 7, 2010
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Snowhazed, I think I remember supertopo calling it 5.11 or 5.9 AND A0. So you can do it all free at 5.11 or…
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Jun 17, 2010
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Go with singles for camalots 1, 2, and 3. I'd go light on the nuts as well (nothing smaller than medium nut…
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Mar 30, 2010
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Thinking about running up this route as a more fun alternative to avalanche gulch. How hard is routefind…
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Feb 1, 2010
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Incredible, steep, and humbling. Five stars. I tip my hat to you, Mr. Porter.
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Jan 27, 2010
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I know it's a straightforward route, but could you put up an actual description please?
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Jan 21, 2010
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Alexey, I'm pretty sure it's 17 bolts now, but I heard it used to be 7. Definitely not spicy anymore.
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Nov 30, 2009
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I thought this was a great route -- just far more varied and "weird" like a granite crack.
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Oct 5, 2009
Gunnison
> Black Canyon of…
> N Rim Routes
> SOB Gully (skie…
> Escape Artist (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)
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Splitter, solid rock, technical, pumpy, overhung... awesome crack.
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