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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: D Allan
Page Views: 2,028 total, 20/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

First route right of Cracker Jack (mixed crack). Route opens with challenging 10b/c moves, then jug haul section to half way point up to a roomy ledge. From the ledge, face climbing brings you to the very fun finishing roof move. Not the most sustained route on the wall but very fun and well-protected.

Location

Fifth route from left or first one right of obvious 30' crack system.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchors
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Climbed this again last weekend and a block came off through the lower stuff below the ledge. I didn't really see that it affected the overall grade that much but that specific section is maybe a letter grade stiffer. Feb 21, 2013
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
10D? Hummm. Yeh, I guess I've found 10Ds at laurel knob like this one.

I agree, best route at the cliff. Dec 21, 2012
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I thought this was the best route at Sweet Rock.

Fun, techy start into a rest, then a sustained and pumpy finish. Full value for a sport climb, definitely felt challenging for 5.10. 10d sounds about right to me. Dec 4, 2010
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Thanks Joe and Zeke! Belated congrats on your send Brigette! I'm always amazed at the deviation in ratings i get on this route. Every time we're out there we meet new people and I've heard folks rate this line from as low as 5.9 all the way up to low 11. It's very height - dependent with a crimpy 2nd half so depending on your build and strengths, the variance makes sense. Aug 20, 2010
Aesthetically probably the best route on sweet rock. I'd vote 10d or 11a, I got the beta from the route setter (thanks Daryl!) Fun moves and a cool dyno for a short guy like me at the end. Very well bolted so it's a great lead. Mar 15, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I'd vote 10+ heavily leaning towards 10D judging by the difficulty partners had with it as well as what it felt like to me. But whatever, it's a fun climb with good movement. Jan 3, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Hmmm, what d'you put in those pancakes again? :-) Dec 14, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
Hah! I got through the crux - no jugging, and no traversing (guess Disneyland will have to wait). Time to downgrade it. 5.10a? Dec 14, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
I pulled it the same day i pulled the big block so it was gone when you did it. It was right next to another fairly substantial hold so it won't be missed much. Maybe I should just keep pulling off holds till i get it up to a 12... what do y'all think? ;) Dec 10, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
"Brigette" wrote:I may have to traverse out to California to get around that spot
LOL Dec 10, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
I may have to traverse out to California to get around that spot, but I'm gonna go for it!

Wait, did you pull the jug at the bottom before or after I climbed it last time? Dec 10, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Well played Christian! =) Brigette - you crack me up! I thought i told you I pulled the block. I didn't like the way it still moved after a week of gluing/drying so i yanked it. It was certain death waiting to happen. May not have happened for years but i sleep better with it gone. I pulled another suspect [jug] hold at the bottom as well. I can't wait to see you going for round 2 on it this weekend! =) Dec 10, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
"There are no reach problems, only power problems." That only applies if you're Lynn Hill though :-) Nov 19, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
By "you", you mean "one", right? Because I'm quite certain that someone other than me could dyno to that less-than-juggy hold.

I'd actually like to try this route again, if anyone's up for it. Nov 19, 2009
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.10b
Nope...that sucks though. I can see how it must be harder now. You could always dyno! Nov 18, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
Geir: It wasn't put up as an 11a. Someone knocked off the block that enabled mortals to reach that high hold.

Boodge: Did *you* knock that block off. ;) Nov 18, 2009
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.10b
Plus, it's not even close to 11a by Cochise or Mt Lemmon standards...regardless of height/reach. Nov 17, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
isn't it forbidden to put up a stronghold route rated 11a or harder unless you've been climbing there for more than 10 years? :) Nov 10, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
  5.11a
I vote 5.11a on this route, based on the impossible-for-anyone-under-6' move before the roof. Tons of fun, otherwise. Nov 9, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
Someone added a bolt so a CAM is no longer needed. Aug 23, 2009