Elevation: 7,766 ft
GPS: 38.024, -107.671 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 277,599 total · 1,270/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Mar 15, 2002 with improvements by doligo
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Ice Climbing

For good reason, you'll see more ice climbers in Ouray than any other place in the world. There are more accessible ice routes here than anywhere else I can imagine. The locals have created an artificial climbing ice world by tapping into a penstock and dripping the water over the cliffs of the Uncompaghre Gorge. There are literraly hundreds of possible lines here, and an infinite number of variations.

The Uncompaghre Gorge is to ice climbing as Rifle is to rock climbing. A crucible where you can test your technique, tools, huevos and patience. That's right, the place is so popular you'll want to have a thermos of coffee handy for the waits. For those wanting adventure, head up the Camp Bird Road to the routes up there. You'll find classics like the Skylight, Birdbrain Blvd and the Ribbon.

For a great apres-dinner activity (You did eat at the Buen Tiempo, didn't you?) hike up the road to the "real" Box Canyon. It's an Indiana Jones-esque labrynth of granite slots, thundering waterfalls and suspension bridges that is wonderfully weird and spooky at night. For best effect, don't bring your headlamps, don't tell anyone where you're going and be sure to under-dress and wear smooth soled shoes.

Best of Ouray: Ice

Best Breakfast: Sunroom at the Vic, but you've gotta be staying there or Backstreet Bistro.

Best Breakfast if you're not staying at the Vic: (The Groundskeeper is gone!)

Best Hotel: The Vic (Duh!) but the Riverside is a very close second and the Weisbaden has those cool vapor caves.

Best Dinner: The Buen Tiempo (sadly, closed) or Bon Ton.
 Best Dinner Value: Botomless Pasta Bowl Night at Bon Ton on Thursdays
.

Best Bar: The Silver Eagle.

Best Guide Service: San Juan Mountain Guides or Peak Mountain Guides.

Best Shop: Ouray Mountain Sports.

Best Beer: Mr. Grumpy Pants, AKA Ourayle House, AKA Hutch's.

Eds. note the additions in italics were suggested by doligo.

Getting There

From Montrose, take US Hwy 550 about 40 miles south to Ouray. Easy.

Ice video

For an ice video by Ouray Ice Park: vimeo.com/57924628.

Ourayicepark.com or 970-325-34288.

243 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Ouray (Ice/Mixed) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ouray (Ice/Mixed)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4-
 79
Slip Sliding Away
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4 R
 68
Chockstone Chimney
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 77
Slippery When Wet
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 58
Horsetail Falls
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4+ M4-5
 120
Skylight
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4+
 95
Choppo's Chimney (aka Chappo's C…
Trad, Ice
WI5 M1
 30
Gravity's Rainbow
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI5 M5
 47
Bird Brain Boulevard
Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
WI5-6 M6
 20
The Talisman
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 70
The Ribbon
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI3-4
 43
Tangled Up In Blue
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4+
 39
Berzerker
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4
 111
Pick o' the Vic
Trad, TR, Ice
WI3-4
 57
Senator Gulch
Ice 99 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI4+ M6-7
 47
Tic Tac
Trad, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slip Sliding Away Camp Bird Rd
 79
WI4- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Chockstone Chimney Camp Bird Rd
 68
WI3-4 R Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Slippery When Wet Camp Bird Rd
 77
WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Horsetail Falls US Highway 550
 58
WI4 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Skylight Camp Bird Rd
 120
WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Choppo's Chimney (aka Chapp… Camp Bird Rd
 95
WI4+ Trad, Ice
Gravity's Rainbow US Highway 550
 30
WI5 M1 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Bird Brain Boulevard Camp Bird Rd
 47
WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
The Talisman Camp Bird Rd
 20
WI5-6 M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
The Ribbon Camp Bird Rd
 70
WI4 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Tangled Up In Blue Uncompahgre Gor… > Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 43
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Berzerker Uncompahgre Gor… > Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 39
WI4+ Trad, TR, Ice
Pick o' the Vic Uncompahgre Gor… > Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 111
WI4 Trad, TR, Ice
Senator Gulch Camp Bird Rd
 57
WI3-4 Ice 99 pitches
Tic Tac Uncompahgre Gor… > Lower Bridge to Scott…
 47
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI4+ M6-7 Trad, Mixed, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Ouray (Ice/Mixed) »

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